Hello Gents, i've been away for quite some time. Since my disappearance from this forum i have bought a new 2006 G6 GTP, 3.9L V6, with a 6-spd trans. Boy do i love that car!
My firebird was going in two shops for the span of 2 months, and a lot of little things were fixed: ( P0101 code, MAP sensor issue, $60 to send in and reman my Dynaspark (believe it: there was P/S fluid inside the opti unit), plug wire #7 was replaced due to a small length of melted insulation (the wire was not in the holder near the block, so it was allegedly resting on the block ....
I replaced my p/s pump and p/s line and that thing runs niiiiiice. not a single drop of fluid leaking from the car!
There is still a problem with the ignition system (diagnosis remains to be done, to track down the gremlin).
Here is the condition:
-Idle is perfect (cold or hot)
-Low RPM in any gear with a 10% TPS load ( 17-2500 rpm), the engine will shudder and bog, but it hasn't stalled.
-Higher RPM (3000+ rpm) is perfect with any load, even compression braking
-No SES light, nor any stored codes
Today, it did not want to start after i drove it 10 mins, parked for 30, then tried to restart. But it started on the 5th try. It sounded like the engine would turn over, ignition was initiated but would not idle when i disengaged the starter...
Where should i start the diag process??
my idea:
-I'll check for any grounding or arcing in the dark tonight
-Check plugs
-check coil
-visual inspect any wires (primary as well as the 2-wire connector wires) from the coil
Battery is 2 years old but i found a wrench that had found its way to pin itself between the battery and the fender wall(?). The wrench had a white dusty residue where it was touching the plastic on the bottom side of the battery. I had it checked for volts and cold cranking amps. Both values were in the 'green' and there was no damage on the bottom of the batt.
Anything i missed?
Thanks in advance, my f-brethren.
--Ryan
My firebird was going in two shops for the span of 2 months, and a lot of little things were fixed: ( P0101 code, MAP sensor issue, $60 to send in and reman my Dynaspark (believe it: there was P/S fluid inside the opti unit), plug wire #7 was replaced due to a small length of melted insulation (the wire was not in the holder near the block, so it was allegedly resting on the block ....
I replaced my p/s pump and p/s line and that thing runs niiiiiice. not a single drop of fluid leaking from the car!
There is still a problem with the ignition system (diagnosis remains to be done, to track down the gremlin).
Here is the condition:
-Idle is perfect (cold or hot)
-Low RPM in any gear with a 10% TPS load ( 17-2500 rpm), the engine will shudder and bog, but it hasn't stalled.
-Higher RPM (3000+ rpm) is perfect with any load, even compression braking
-No SES light, nor any stored codes
Today, it did not want to start after i drove it 10 mins, parked for 30, then tried to restart. But it started on the 5th try. It sounded like the engine would turn over, ignition was initiated but would not idle when i disengaged the starter...
Where should i start the diag process??
my idea:
-I'll check for any grounding or arcing in the dark tonight
-Check plugs
-check coil
-visual inspect any wires (primary as well as the 2-wire connector wires) from the coil
Battery is 2 years old but i found a wrench that had found its way to pin itself between the battery and the fender wall(?). The wrench had a white dusty residue where it was touching the plastic on the bottom side of the battery. I had it checked for volts and cold cranking amps. Both values were in the 'green' and there was no damage on the bottom of the batt.
Anything i missed?
Thanks in advance, my f-brethren.
--Ryan
