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VATS Again!!

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  • VATS Again!!

    So I get in the car this morning, put the key in, turn, nothing, nada, zip. So I look up at the dash. The security light is on. The @#$%& VATS has gone out AGAIN! Guess it's time to stop putting off that bypass mod
    Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

  • #2
    Originally posted by BrdWAtti2d
    So I get in the car this morning, put the key in, turn, nothing, nada, zip. So I look up at the dash. The security light is on. The @#$%& VATS has gone out AGAIN! Guess it's time to stop putting off that bypass mod
    Several years ago my 95 did that. I cleaned the key and it made no difference. I took a can or Autozone carb cleaner and sprayed it in the ignition cylinder and it fixed it. It has not done it since then. Autozone carb cleaner is great stuff. I buy it buy the case.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      Mine is the wires leading into the keylock. It's done it before so I know just where to start. Experience is a great thing, I've already torn down the column, fixed the wires, tested it, and I'm on the finishing touches of wrapping it up. So, I got an unscheduled day off. Worse things could happen
      Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

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      • #4
        Don't be so sure a bypass will fix your problem. Project 93 was doing the very same thing. Did the bypass and thought the problem was fixed. Wrong.........

        There could be a short in the harness leading to the BCM that will shut it down due to loss of communication. I still haven't fixed it yet, I'll get to that once I get it running again. (headgasket)

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        • #5
          Yep its all done. I was very careful the first time to solder the wires back together and cover them with heat shrink insulation, thinking that the extra thickness of the heat shrink stuff would help keep them from wearing through. Wrong-O, they broke in another spot past the new insulator. Back up and running, off to buy a resistor!!

          Oh and for anyone that's torn that column apart and knows about that little snap ring that holds the turn signal actuator in place, and what a pita it is to get back on...without the "special GM tool". I improvised a home made tool out of an old spark plug heat sheild, if you cut a hole in the top of the heat shield with a dremel so it will slip over the steering wheel shaft, you can put the nut back on the shaft with the homeboy tool in place and press the actuator back down and the locking clip snaps right in. Yea I know it's very Rube Golberg but it works!
          Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

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          • #6
            Hope it worked as I can empathize with these type of persistent gremlins that arise (had a '78 grand Lemans for 16 years). If not it would be good to get to a radio install shop and get them to see if you have any bad wires. Considering they see car wires all the time, they might be able to help if your still stuck with the issue. Hell this winter I have to replace the horns, and a cracked drivers-door panel (infamouns 98+ expansion/contraction crack). Knock on wood that I don't get an electrical gremlin in a few years
            Rhode Island Red *Lurker since 1997*

            2002 Firehawk #0035/1503 !Cags | !Air | !PCV | Airborn-coated Kooks LT's | Powerbond UD Pulley | Custom Cam | Ported Oil pump | LS2 timing chain | Comp 918's | Hardened push rods | LSS | BMR STB | SLP Bolt-on SFC's | drill mod |TB Bypass | Ported TB | Custom Dyno tuning | 160* thermostat | LS7 Clutch
            Ordered: May 1, 2001 Built: June 1, 2001 Delivered August 25, 2001
            pics and info

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            • #7
              Originally posted by BrdWAtti2d
              Oh and for anyone that's torn that column apart and knows about that little snap ring that holds the turn signal actuator in place, and what a pita it is to get back on...without the "special GM tool". I improvised a home made tool out of an old spark plug heat sheild, if you cut a hole in the top of the heat shield with a dremel so it will slip over the steering wheel shaft, you can put the nut back on the shaft with the homeboy tool in place and press the actuator back down and the locking clip snaps right in. Yea I know it's very Rube Golberg but it works!
              I have the lock plate compressor tool that I believe you are talking about but I also have a home made steering wheel puller that a friend's dad helped me fashion years ago when I needed to replace the turn signal switch on my '79 Firebird. The tool looks questionable but works like a charm.
              My DD
              2015 Lexus GS350 FSport

              My toy

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              • #8
                Lock plate compressor, yea that's it, sorry didn't know the tech term. S'ok my improvised one works fine, yes very questionable looking, but works flawlesly. Necessity is the mother of invention?

                The gremlin is satisfied for now. Just bad engineering with those wires in the keylock. Nothing a bypass resistor won't cure.
                Tracy, 97 Formula, pretty much stock.

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