Stick a fork in me (pics and videos added)

[Joe 1320]

I'll post what's been going on with me in another thread. No sense hijacking this one.

Have you dug into the suspension yet? Also, I'll have to post some pics for you once I start the new instrumentation project.

Suspension will be fairly soon. I REALLY want the GNX dash conversion. Price is nutty though.

Fixed the climate control. I had a check valve installed backwards. Now I have to find a R-12 source or someone willing to use a substitute. Now the detailing begins. The whole underside has been neglected for far too long.

[Z Ya Later]

I know, I looked at the conversion cost. $1600 is a lot of money. I managed to snag a dash panel with 8 gauge holes (6 2 1/8, 2 3 3/8), but I guess I got the last one from that place.

What do you have in mind for the suspension? Just gonna do springs and shocks or are you looking at arms too?

And yes, detailing is always fun. lol At least the HVAC is working.

[Joe 1320]

What do you have in mind for the suspension? Just gonna do springs and shocks or are you looking at arms too?

And yes, detailing is always fun. lol At least the HVAC is working.

I plan on retaining the stock front A arms with upgraded bushings and ball joints. the rear will probably have tubular arms and a few other tidbits to keep things under control. I'm making this as close to a stock appearing car as possible.

[Z Ya Later]

I plan on retaining the stock front A arms with upgraded bushings and ball joints. the rear will probably have tubular arms and a few other tidbits to keep things under control. I'm making this as close to a stock appearing car as possible.

Gotcha. For what its worth, the Spohn arms work pretty well, front and rear. I won't say how I know, just that I know. Also, the Kirban springs and Bilstein shocks really make the suspension come alive. Are you gonna lower yours or keep it stock height?

[Joe 1320]

Gotcha. For what its worth, the Spohn arms work pretty well, front and rear. I won't say how I know, just that I know. Also, the Kirban springs and Bilstein shocks really make the suspension come alive. Are you gonna lower yours or keep it stock height?

It's going to be exactly like pictured in my signature, not going to lower it. it sits just fine and makes it easier to hook.

[Z Ya Later]

It's going to be exactly like pictured in my signature, not going to lower it. it sits just fine and makes it easier to hook.

Agreed. That's the reason I went with the Kirban springs. They keep the car at stock height but she handles soooooooo much better, esp. since their rear springs are variable rate instead of the wimpy stock rear ones.

Also, just out of curiosity, why did you go with the 233 FPR instead of the 237?

[Joe 1320]

Also, just out of curiosity, why did you go with the 233 FPR instead of the 237?

Ahh...... good eye.

One look and people automtatically assume it's a stocker. It's a stealth regulator. Pull off the vacuum supply and an allen wrench insets into the port to change the pressure.

[Z Ya Later]

Ahh...... good eye.

One look and people automtatically assume it's a stocker. It's a stealth regulator. Pull off the vacuum supply and an allen wrench insets into the port to change the pressure.

Ahhhh, that's the unit you were telling me about before. I wish I could find me one of those. All I ever come across are the standard adjustable FPRs with the big screw sticking out of the top. Very indeed. Is it rebuildable?

[Joe 1320]

It's not rebuildable. The company that used to make it went away several years ago. I haven't seen one of these is quite a while.

[Joe 1320]

Dropped off the buick at the shop, I wisely decided not to disassemble the front suspension. if you've ever had to get bushings out of control arms or the like, you already know it's a PITA even with good tools. So off to the shop it went..... It's getting a complete front end overhaul with all new bushings, ball joints, tie rods and ends, jounce bumpers, sway bar links, etc. This is a performance suspension's graphite impregnated polyurethane componants so they will be firm and no squeaks due to the self lubricating properties of the graphite. Can't wait to feel what the car drives like with what amounts to be a better than factory fresh setup. Then it's off to the alignment shop with and the new front tires mounted.

Next is getting the climate control squared away. Can't really do much with R-12 these days.

[Steel2686]

Next is getting the climate control squared away. Can't really do much with R-12 these days.

Are the R-134a conversion kits model specific? I believe 1994 was the year it became standard. I bought a new Lumina Z34 in 1993 but never had to do the conversion as it still worked when I traded it in seven years later.

[Joe 1320]

Are the R-134a conversion kits model specific? I believe 1994 was the year it became standard. I bought a new Lumina Z34 in 1993 but never had to do the conversion as it still worked when I traded it in seven years later.

93 was the last year for R-12. As far as conversions, that's a whole different can of worms. Some say that the conversions don't work well unless you ugrade the size of the condensor, compressor, etc. Supposedly, in order to get the same amount of cooling, you have to upgrade or the r-134a used the current system won't pull down the temps very well. things like cooling dropping off at idle or marginal performance in really hot temps. I'm still researching all the opinions and trying to seperate fact from fiction.

[FroSSty]

93 was the last year for R-12. As far as conversions, that's a whole different can of worms. Some say that the conversions don't work well unless you ugrade the size of the condensor, compressor, etc. Supposedly, in order to get the same amount of cooling, you have to upgrade or the r-134a used the current system won't pull down the temps very well. things like cooling dropping off at idle or marginal performance in really hot temps. I'm still researching all the opinions and trying to seperate fact from fiction.

Most of that is fact on most cars. R12 cooled a lot better than r134a. The older systems were built with r12 in mind. Its like putting regular unleaded in your car instead of premium. Yes, it can be done but don't expect it to be the best performer.

[Steel2686]

93 was the last year for R-12. As far as conversions, that's a whole different can of worms. Some say that the conversions don't work well unless you ugrade the size of the condensor, compressor, etc. Supposedly, in order to get the same amount of cooling, you have to upgrade or the r-134a used the current system won't pull down the temps very well. things like cooling dropping off at idle or marginal performance in really hot temps. I'm still researching all the opinions and trying to seperate fact from fiction.

I agree about the cooling difference. My Lumina had some of the coldest A/C I can remember.

In talking with a friend from work, he did the conversion to his old '91 Mustang GT. He said it worked well enough, but found he had to recharge it more often due to sloppy seals in the kit he used at the time. Back then, the kits were around $100. Now they seem to be floating around $40 - $50.

[Trash man]

all you need is the fitting adpators, we did it on my olds boss 79 K10, everything was for R12, all we did was throw it under a vaccum and kept the high side around 150-175ish and low between 30-35psi. it actually gets so cold, you gotta turn it off