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  • lock up torque converter Whats it do?

    i'm looking at a high stall speed lock up torque converter. i have a 95 Z28 with an A4. people rave on how this high speed converter will help my Z28.
    how does this thing work ?
    how do you use it ?
    hows it different to my stock converter?
    heres a link to one on ebay...
    thanks guys,
    eddie
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...953733741&rd=1
    1995 Z28 A4, SCC Ultra Z Hood with Air box/K&N filter, Granatelli Maf Sensor/Fernco bellow/Hotchkis STB/white face gauges/LT4 Knock module/March pullies/160* stat without Hypertech Tunning/Borla 3" y-pipe/HI Flo 3" cat/SLP Loudmouth/GM Motive 3.73's + TA rear end girdle/Afs ZR1's silver painted with polished lip 17x9.5 front & 17x11 out back/98 tail light's/BMR SFC's/spohn Lca's/spohn relo brackets & spohn adj. panhard rod " coated mid lenght pacesetters headers + 1.6rr + custom pc tuning going on soon hopefully "

  • #2
    well, to understand how the converter will halp your performance, you must understand how it works.

    http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/tor..._explained.htm

    TCI will do a pretty go job of it.

    Basicly, the higher "Stall Speed" means that the converter will stop slipping at that speed. In lock up converters with will usally lock up some where just after the stall speed. All converters in 4L60-E's are lock up I belive. Stock converters stall speeds are around 1400 RPM. when you opt for a 3000RPM stall speed, your converter will slip till you approach 3000RPM and then begin to lock. The advantage is that your motor is makeing more power at 3000RPM than at 1400RPM, so your first acceleration will be more powerful, throwing you out of the hole faster.

    Did that make any sense?
    1967 VW Bug 2.3L Ford SVO Inline 4 w/ Turbo, Sand-Drag VW Trans Axle, Race this Import.
    2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Totally Stock

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    • #3
      squat13,
      makes sence Now....
      thanks buddy...
      eddie
      1995 Z28 A4, SCC Ultra Z Hood with Air box/K&N filter, Granatelli Maf Sensor/Fernco bellow/Hotchkis STB/white face gauges/LT4 Knock module/March pullies/160* stat without Hypertech Tunning/Borla 3" y-pipe/HI Flo 3" cat/SLP Loudmouth/GM Motive 3.73's + TA rear end girdle/Afs ZR1's silver painted with polished lip 17x9.5 front & 17x11 out back/98 tail light's/BMR SFC's/spohn Lca's/spohn relo brackets & spohn adj. panhard rod " coated mid lenght pacesetters headers + 1.6rr + custom pc tuning going on soon hopefully "

      Comment


      • #4
        I am going to go simple on the answer. A torque convertor basically acts like a clutch. It lets the transmission input "slip" in relation to the engine / flywheel. As the RPM rises the viscous coupling within the converter allows less "slippage" up to the point where it "stalls" (goes 1:1 without slip or very little slip). For fuel saving and reliability reasons the factory set-up allows just enough slip to keep your car form stalling when put into drive or come to a stop at the light. It begins to "stall" (or not slip) at low RPMS. A high stall converter allows the converter to slip (and stay staionary while you hold the brakes), until you bring your motor to the "stall speed". The engine is now in its peak HP RPM range when the converter puts the power to the drive train. So basically it is the Auto version of dumping the clutch at high RPMs.

        Get a high stall converter and we'll get to your tractions questions after you get in put in

        Lock-up is the ability to electro-mechanically overide the small amounts of slippage that occurs above the stall speed (it goes from viscous to mechanical coupling I think). This is primarily a gas saving feature.

        I am likely to have got some little technicality wrong and welcome the corrections.

        Sean
        1994 Z28, 6 spd, LE2 Heads, GM 1.6 RR, .026" head gasket, SLP: CAI-Headers (CARB legal)-ypipe-2 on the left-lightweight flywheel-short throw, Random tech cat, CF dual friction, LT-4 KM.

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        • #5
          does SLP make good ones ???
          were shouls i look for one ?
          i've got 3.73's already..going to start shopping for a good Tranny Cooler can anyone point me in the right direction???
          thanks,
          eddie
          1995 Z28 A4, SCC Ultra Z Hood with Air box/K&N filter, Granatelli Maf Sensor/Fernco bellow/Hotchkis STB/white face gauges/LT4 Knock module/March pullies/160* stat without Hypertech Tunning/Borla 3" y-pipe/HI Flo 3" cat/SLP Loudmouth/GM Motive 3.73's + TA rear end girdle/Afs ZR1's silver painted with polished lip 17x9.5 front & 17x11 out back/98 tail light's/BMR SFC's/spohn Lca's/spohn relo brackets & spohn adj. panhard rod " coated mid lenght pacesetters headers + 1.6rr + custom pc tuning going on soon hopefully "

          Comment


          • #6
            I'd say a good torque converter would be a vigilante. When I got my tranny, it came with a vigilante higher stall converter. From what I've heard, they make a good converter; and I myself am very happy with it .

            As for a trans cooler, i bought a universal trans cooler. I didn't have the most amount of $$$ for a better one, but i will say it is a good bang for the buck. I got a trans temp gauge, and the tranny always operates at a nice cooler temperature. BMR from what i've heard makes a good one also, but i wouldn't rule out a universal one if i were you...i couldn't be happier with mine.
            black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Sean 94z28
              I am going to go simple on the answer. A torque convertor basically acts like a clutch. It lets the transmission input "slip" in relation to the engine / flywheel. As the RPM rises the viscous coupling within the converter allows less "slippage" up to the point where it "stalls" (goes 1:1 without slip or very little slip). For fuel saving and reliability reasons the factory set-up allows just enough slip to keep your car form stalling when put into drive or come to a stop at the light. It begins to "stall" (or not slip) at low RPMS. A high stall converter allows the converter to slip (and stay staionary while you hold the brakes), until you bring your motor to the "stall speed". The engine is now in its peak HP RPM range when the converter puts the power to the drive train. So basically it is the Auto version of dumping the clutch at high RPMs.

              Get a high stall converter and we'll get to your tractions questions after you get in put in

              Lock-up is the ability to electro-mechanically overide the small amounts of slippage that occurs above the stall speed (it goes from viscous to mechanical coupling I think). This is primarily a gas saving feature.

              I am likely to have got some little technicality wrong and welcome the corrections.

              Sean
              "The engine is now in its peak HP RPM range when the converter puts the power to the drive train. So basically it is the Auto version of du"

              ive never heard of a 5800rpm.......... stall speed converter...

              The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

              2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

              Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
              Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
              sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by wolfman
                "The engine is now in its peak HP RPM range when the converter puts the power to the drive train. So basically it is the Auto version of du"

                ive never heard of a 5800rpm.......... stall speed converter...
                What about the Converters used in Cars with trans brakes. Those are sometimes as high as 5000 or 5500RPM.

                Remember to install a trans cooler with the new converter. The rise in stall speed will creat a lot of heat and to keep from bakeing your clutches and bands, its a nice precoution.

                The Vigulanti (I know thats miss spelled) is a great converter. Also, I remember Yank and TSI put out a nice product. Im not sure about the SLP converters. Also, dont bother with anything below 2400RPM, Its kinda just a waste of money. Most of my buddies install converters as one of there first bolt-ons and go with 3000RPM and 3200RPM Stalls. I have seen a stock 2000 Formule with a 3200 RPM converter, 3.73's and Drag Radials bust high 12's all day. Not bad for 1000$ worth of bolt-ons.
                1967 VW Bug 2.3L Ford SVO Inline 4 w/ Turbo, Sand-Drag VW Trans Axle, Race this Import.
                2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Totally Stock

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by wolfman
                  "The engine is now in its peak HP RPM range when the converter puts the power to the drive train. So basically it is the Auto version of du"

                  ive never heard of a 5800rpm.......... stall speed converter...
                  You are correct. I should have said optimum torque range. And what I meant generally was the RPM range where the fun is

                  Thank you Ken. Wrong info is worse than at all.

                  Good Day!
                  Sean
                  1994 Z28, 6 spd, LE2 Heads, GM 1.6 RR, .026" head gasket, SLP: CAI-Headers (CARB legal)-ypipe-2 on the left-lightweight flywheel-short throw, Random tech cat, CF dual friction, LT-4 KM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    my 2 cents i thought that a converter worked like this. you have three main components 2 impelers and a stator one of the impelers is driven by the motor this forces fluid on to the stator which diverts the fluid on to the other impeler which is conected to the input of the trany the stall speed is the speed at which the fulid has enough force to turn the input shaft giving you drive. the stator is used to increce tourque as the rpm rises the amount of torque multiplcation is reduced and the TCC lockes the input and out put together giving direct drive thus reducing the drag and power loss caused by torque multiplaction. so changing the stall speed causies the engine to be at the optimum power band befor drive is applied to the transmition thus you dont have to build up to the power band
                    http://www.pontiacdriversclub.co.uk/ keeping it pontiac in the the uk. 93 formula a4 ZR1 rims
                    C A I , B M R torque arm lower arms panhard rod and sub frame conectors borla adjustble with Q T P valve and no cat WHAT NEXT ?

                    big burn out movie nats 2003 burn out contest
                    mirror burn out movie top ten burn outs

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                    • #11
                      Is this harder on the tranny? I mean besides the extra heat. If it is basically not engaging until a higher RPM is it basically dumping the tranny? and if it is, isn't this a lot harder on the car?

                      I am curious because I am getting gears installed tomorrow and this is another mod that I have read is very effective at lowring ET's.


                      Thanks

                      '95 TA A4, 118000 on the clock!
                      Borla, Strange 3.73's, SLP CAI, Vortech elbow,AFS Z06 Wheels,White gauges/blue backlighting,blue custom interior,MBA Shift knob,MadZ28 Tune, Intrax springs, Bilstein shocks, ES Trans Mount, Honeycomb taillights.

                      13.685@102.11

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jerrysta
                        Is this harder on the tranny? I mean besides the extra heat. If it is basically not engaging until a higher RPM is it basically dumping the tranny? and if it is, isn't this a lot harder on the car?

                        I am curious because I am getting gears installed tomorrow and this is another mod that I have read is very effective at lowring ET's.


                        Thanks
                        Get a trans cooler....Universal and B&M make good ones
                        black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          i just read the link about how a torque converter works after i posted my 2 cents i was not far off then. wow i must have lernt somthing at collage then
                          http://www.pontiacdriversclub.co.uk/ keeping it pontiac in the the uk. 93 formula a4 ZR1 rims
                          C A I , B M R torque arm lower arms panhard rod and sub frame conectors borla adjustble with Q T P valve and no cat WHAT NEXT ?

                          big burn out movie nats 2003 burn out contest
                          mirror burn out movie top ten burn outs

                          Comment

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