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  • Getting a new cam.

    Read bad things about the 306. Old technology.

    I have upgraded cc valve springs, cc valve locks, cc retainers, etc.... Everything I need to run a bigger cam.

    I'll be running LT headers or something close to it with an off road Y pipe

    I will be fully porting the stock heads and putting 1.6R rr's on there.

    How does this cam sound?
    TN-233XL 233/239 duration, .569"/.577", 112lsa

    I want a lot of power. Gas mileage isn't a big deal, idle sound isn't a big deal. I won't be stroking the engine or doing anything to the bottom end for another 3 or 4 years, or after it's paid off. Nitrous is a maybe down the road.

    Suggestions?
    97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

    01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines


  • #2
    That is a pretty good cam. You can probably expect somewhere in the neighborhood of 430 RWHP. I actually had that cam in my 97 WS6 for a short while. It sounded pretty good and really pulled from about 3000-6400. Personally I would go with something bigger with a fully ported head to take full advantage of the head. You have an M6 so it really won't matter how big the cam is.

    Which valve springs are you going to use? How much N20 do you plan on jetting down the road? What size valves are you going to use?

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by fastTA
      That is a pretty good cam. You can probably expect somewhere in the neighborhood of 430 RWHP. I actually had that cam in my 97 WS6 for a short while. It sounded pretty good and really pulled from about 3000-6400. Personally I would go with something bigger with a fully ported head to take full advantage of the head. You have an M6 so it really won't matter how big the cam is.

      Which valve springs are you going to use? How much N20 do you plan on jetting down the road? What size valves are you going to use?
      I was thinking about this one too. I wasn't sure if it would be too big.
      TN-236XL 236/242 duration, .555"/.576", 112lsa

      I have CC 986 dual coil springs. Stock valves, and maybe a 150-200 shot down the road.

      I talked to the guy at comp cams, he said those springs were good to .590 lift, so I figured I'd be all right. I just read an article on beehive springs in my GM hi tech though.. Said they're a lot better than the dual springs counterpart. Too late though, I have the springs right next to me.
      97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

      01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

      Comment


      • #4
        Just something to consider but, how many miles are on the Bottom End? Reason I ask is because your stock LT1 might not like revving up to 6,400 and that Cam looks to be pretty aggressive. The shop which installed my HOT cam wouldn't touch the engine unless they first inspected the Bottom end. Maybe it was their way of making some extra $$, but they claimed to have seen a few spun bearings with only a Cam swap so just be carefull. I have to admit that sounds like an awesome Cam, wish I had done a little more homework before using just the HOT cam. Good luck

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Eric 97LT4SS
          Just something to consider but, how many miles are on the Bottom End? Reason I ask is because your stock LT1 might not like revving up to 6,400 and that Cam looks to be pretty aggressive. The shop which installed my HOT cam wouldn't touch the engine unless they first inspected the Bottom end. Maybe it was their way of making some extra $$, but they claimed to have seen a few spun bearings with only a Cam swap so just be carefull. I have to admit that sounds like an awesome Cam, wish I had done a little more homework before using just the HOT cam. Good luck
          Around 88K.

          I put 10K miles on my car from May to now, and it sat put away from Nov to just 3 weeks ago. I thought about that too.

          I'd rather have a came that made power from 2500-6000 than 3000-6500 ya know? I'll have to get some opinions.
          97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

          01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

          Comment


          • #6
            I would check out Lloyd Elliott's custom grinds, with matched heads. Pricing is really great too. www.eportworks.com

            Better #'s than CC306/GM847 throughout the band. Someone here also went with an LE1 cam w/LE2 heads, can't remember who though.
            1995 Firebird Formula
            (A4 3.23)Ram Air w/ K&N, TransGo Shift Kit w/3 washers ,SLP~Shorty headers, LoudMouth, Air Foil, LineLocks. Catco Cat. Hypertech 160. TB Bypass. MSD~8.5mm. Walbro 255lph. FT MAF ends. LT4KM. BMR~Adj LCA's, Rear sway, Panhard rod. HAL QA1 rear shocks. Random Tech adj TQ arm. Nitto NT555R's. Covered in Zaino. 13.466@103.85 N/A. [1.948 60' 13.410 @ 102.66 11/20/05]

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Formulaboy95
              I would check out Lloyd Elliott's custom grinds, with matched heads. Pricing is really great too. www.eportworks.com

              Better #'s than CC306/GM847 throughout the band. Someone here also went with an LE1 cam w/LE2 heads, can't remember who though.
              I have a local guy that does my heads. He'll do them as a side job for me for a 1/2 of what most places charge. Flow bench and all. LT1/LS1 heads are his specialty. He also guaranteed he can have my heads flowing better than anyone else could.
              97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

              01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by raroZ28
                I'd rather have a came that made power from 2500-6000 than 3000-6500 ya know? I'll have to get some opinions.

                Why do you want that?
                Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.

                Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500

                Comment


                • #9
                  I dont want to take my car to 6500 to get the max out of my cam. Seems a bit high.
                  97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                  01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    vinci High Performance seems to have some pretty good cams for those rpm ranges

                    --i was looking at the "asp kicker" myself

                    http://www.vincihighperformance.com/...%20LS1%202.htm
                    Black '96 Z28, loudmouth exhaust, Mac mid length headers, crane cams powermax 104227 cam, crane 1.6rr,'s, springs, lifters and pushrods. MSD distributor, slp ultra z hood with air box, bbk 52mm throttle body, march underdrive pulleys, hpp+, 1le sway bars, spohn LCA's and relo brackets, Spohn SFC's, adj panhard bar, bilstein shocks, H&R springs, strut tower brace...Audio-Alpine head unit, MB Quart 6.5" component in the front and 6.5" Boston in the rear w Alpine 75x4 amp, Alpine Type-X 12 in the trunk w/ alpine 1000w amp

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by raroZ28
                      I dont want to take my car to 6500 to get the max out of my cam. Seems a bit high.

                      I don't know what you mean... it's a lot better to make power higher up (within reason) than it is down low so that you can take advantage of the lower gears. When you're running a 1320, you're never below 3500 RPMs except for a brief couple seconds in first gear. Cam it as high as you can!
                      Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.

                      Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You need to call these 2 places

                        www.bauer-racing.com or www.advancedinduction.com

                        Brett Bauer builds all sorts of road racing motors and can design a cam for YOU.

                        Phil at Advance Induction does the same thing. Check out their websites (especially Advanced Induction, they put a head and cam package in a 100k plus motor and got over 400 to the wheels or something like that).

                        Good luck. But calling an engine builder and buying it from them would/ could be the singel best thing you can do as far as a cam is concerned. Either way good luck.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Jay 02 TA ws6
                          I don't know what you mean... it's a lot better to make power higher up (within reason) than it is down low so that you can take advantage of the lower gears. When you're running a 1320, you're never below 3500 RPMs except for a brief couple seconds in first gear. Cam it as high as you can!
                          Why do you need to have such a big top end if you're not always going to be at the track? It's going to be a street driven car, right Raro? I can't imagine driving around the city having to rev past 3K just to get a SOTP fix. I hardly get the time to drive my car since I drive a company car everywhere, but when I do get the chance, theres just nothing like pulling from corners and dead stops without having to really open it up. It would definetly be nice to have that top end, but I guess it all comes down to what the car will be primarily used for. I think a good balance of both is the best combination for any street/strip car.
                          1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by AmericanZ28
                            Why do you need to have such a big top end if you're not always going to be at the track? It's going to be a street driven car, right Raro? I can't imagine driving around the city having to rev past 3K just to get a SOTP fix. I hardly get the time to drive my car since I drive a company car everywhere, but when I do get the chance, theres just nothing like pulling from corners and dead stops without having to really open it up. It would definetly be nice to have that top end, but I guess it all comes down to what the car will be primarily used for. I think a good balance of both is the best combination for any street/strip car.

                            I really don't know why several of you guys think a top-end biased cam automatically makes the car a DOG from 0-3500 RPMs.

                            Maybe instead of 250 ft-lbs of torque @ 2000 RPMs he'll be making 225 ft-lbs wich is still a lot... by 3000 RPMs, the difference will really start to even out... and then the hotter cam will carry more power all the way through the rest of the power band, and extend the power band even further. First gear goes 0-50 mph... is it really that hard to go over 3000 RPMs in first gear? I'll sacrifice 20 ft-lbs of torque at 2000 RPMs to gain 70 ft-lbs @ 5500 and extend the usable rev range 500 RPMs further every time.

                            Also, we're comparing this to the stock cam. It's so conservative, that I really think it's possible for a high-end cam to make more power practically throughout the ENTIRE rev range with a good tune.

                            I also don't think 6500 is "high reving"... I would think raro should be able to move his shift points up that high without sacrificing much of anyting.
                            Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.

                            Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Formulaboy95
                              Someone here also went with an LE1 cam w/LE2 heads, can't remember who though.
                              Maybe me you're thinking of?
                              '95 Trans Am - A4, LE2 heads, LE1 cam, 1.6 ProMags, Comp R's, AS&M CAI, AS&M 54mm, MAC midlengths, Random Tech. cat, Borla cat back, PCMforless, Vigilante 2800, 3.73's, BMR LCAs/panhard/shock tower brace

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