LT1 vs LS1 brakes

[Jeff_in_Atl]

OK, here is the picture I promised. http://www.claire-marie.net/LT1vsLS1_brakes.JPG I'm not going to embed the picture here because it is 2.33 meg so you might not want to open it if you have dialup.

The LT1 is on the left and the LS1 is on the right.

Too bad the guy at Tennessee auto gave me 2 left side calipers and no right side caliper. Grrrr. I'm going to have to have a talk with that boy.

Everything went pretty well other than that with the exception of one thing. If you get the parts to convert them from LT1 to LS1, make sure you get the little metal brackets that holds the end of the rubber brake line where it mounts to the frame. The brake line for a LS1 will not fit the LT1 without some grinding/drilling. Another note is a pickle fork will not separate the ball joints. I had to use a 2 prong gear puller. The pickle fork will mess up the boot on the ball joints and the tie rod ends. I just went ahead and replaced the tie rod ends since they were only $11 each at AutoZone.

[TraceZ]

Why not replace the ball joints too, as long as you are "in the nieghborhood"?

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Why not replace the ball joints too, as long as you are "in the nieghborhood"?

Because I couldn't figure out how to get them off.

[Z Ya Later]

Thanks for the comparison Jeff. So, would you still recommend Tennessee Auto for a brake conversion? Would they still work in the stock 16" wheels? I really don't wanna upgrade to 17s just yet.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Thanks for the comparison Jeff. So, would you still recommend Tennessee Auto for a brake conversion?

Yes but you need to double check everything. I ended up with 2 master cylinders, 2 left calipers, no right calipers, no brake line brackets, missing some of the metal rattle clips for the calipers which cost $10 at AutoZone for a kit for both front calipers. I was amazed that AutoZone carried such a thing. (For the trans conversion I ended up with a SLP shifter that I didn't know I would get so I had already ordered a Hurst, no bells housing inspection plate or screws, no sheet metal nut clips for the shifter boot or shifter boot (he gave me a 5 speed boot which is different because he didn't have a 6 speed boot), missing a 12mm nut on the clutch release cylinder, missing 1 electrical switch on the brake/clutch/gas pedal assembly, and no electrical harness connectors which he said he would supply but later claimed he didn't.)

I don't know where else you could get everything as a kit like this. I am satisfied with Tennessee Auto but he could have been more thorough.

Would they still work in the stock 16" wheels? I really don't wanna upgrade to 17s just yet.

I don't know. I have a set of 16" wheels in the shed but very large tree limb fell on it and squished it and I can't get them out. I'm going to have to peal off the shed.

[Z Ya Later]

Yes but you need to double check everything. I ended up with 2 master cylinders, 2 left calipers, no right calipers, no brake line brackets, missing some of the metal rattle clips for the calipers which cost $10 at AutoZone for a kit for both front calipers. I was amazed that AutoZone carried such a thing. (For the trans conversion I ended up with a SLP shifter that I didn't know I would get so I had already ordered a Hurst, no bells housing inspection plate or screws, no sheet metal nut clips for the shifter boot or shifter boot (he gave me a 5 speed boot which is different because he didn't have a 6 speed boot), missing a 12mm nut on the clutch release cylinder, missing 1 electrical switch on the brake/clutch/gas pedal assembly, and no electrical harness connectors which he said he would supply but later claimed he didn't.)

I don't know where else you could get everything as a kit like this. I am satisfied with Tennessee Auto but he could have been more thorough.

I don't know. I have a set of 16" wheels in the shed but very large tree limb fell on it and squished it and I can't get them out. I'm going to have to peal off the shed.

Hold on, so the conversion would also require upgrading the master cylinder? I thought they used the same unit. Also, if you do end up putting your stock 16s on as a test fit, please let me know what the result is. If they'll fit, then I'm definitely going to add that to my list of upgrades. Thanks for the info Jeff, you da man

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Hold on, so the conversion would also require upgrading the master cylinder? I thought they used the same unit. Also, if you do end up putting your stock 16s on as a test fit, please let me know what the result is. If they'll fit, then I'm definitely going to add that to my list of upgrades. Thanks for the info Jeff, you da man

I don't know if require is the correct word to use. I looked up the part on the parts list and the entire makeup of the master cylinder including the housing is exactly the same except 1 part on the end of the plunger is different. Both are the same size bore therefore one shouldn't be able to push more fluid than the other. I don't know why they changed that 1 part. I have not changed mine and it seams fine. I can't drive it because I changed the tie rod ends and it is way out of alignment. I need to take it in first thing.

I can't get my old wheels out of the old shed. They are buried. Did 1998-2002 V8 F-bodies come with 16" wheels? I think they did so that should answer your question.

[Z Ya Later]

The Zs and Trans Ams did, the SS, WS6 and Firehawks came with 17s. So, there should be no problme, in theory, correct? Thanks for the help man. Lemme know how they feel once you get the front end re-aligned. I bet there's a huge difference in stopping power.

[94 formula]

It was an option on the Z's to get 17's. There were LS1's with 16in rims and they should fit fine on yours.

[Z Ya Later]

It was an option on the Z's to get 17's. There were LS1's with 16in rims and they should fit fine on yours.

Alright, cool. Thanks man. Looks like I'll go to LS1 brakes pretty soon then.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

I got the front end aligned this morning. It's raining here so I can't get on the brakes real hard without the antilock kicking in. The brake pedal is firmer but that is probably due to this being the first time that I or probably anyone has ever bled the brakes. The stainless lines are supposed to help too.

They look better in the 17" wheel.

[fastTa]

I got the front end aligned this morning. It's raining here so I can't get on the brakes real hard without the antilock kicking in. The brake pedal is firmer but that is probably due to this being the first time that I or probably anyone has ever bled the brakes. The stainless lines are supposed to help too.

They look better in the 17" wheel.

Braided stainless brake lines work wonders! I just put them on my Tahoe and the pedal is much, much more firm, stopping is much smoother, and no more brake fade.