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  • Welding relocation brackets

    I've recieved my spohn lca reloction brackets in the mail and am getting ready to install them. In spohn's installation instructions they tell me to mig weld the brackets into place, but in BMR's instructions they tell you to weld a bead on all sides (stick weld). Which one would you recommend. Does it matter all that much? Stick welding would be more convenient for me since I have easy access to one. thanks for the help.
    1993 Formula - 99k
    Throttle body bypass, K&N FIPK II, SLP Loudmouth, Mad Z28 Chip, 3.73 motives, TPI airfoil, Spohn LCA relocation brackets, Fuddle 3200 Stall, B&M Supercooler, LS1 driveshaft, and chrome ZR1's 17"/9.5" and 17/11" in the back!!!

  • #2
    Mig welding is much better and stronger than arc welding. It's a heck of a lot easier. I've had muffler shops weld stuff for me before. That is something you really don't want to come apart either.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      A MIG weld is usually sufficient but, by all means if you can ARC weld then go for it. ARC has much better penetration and looks cleaner. A 6011 stick should do the trick.

      I always use cold galvanizing compund to cover the weld and then paint over it to thoroughly prevent rust. You can get "cold gal" at most major hardware or home improvement stores. Home Depot caries it.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by fastTA
        A MIG weld is usually sufficient but, by all means if you can ARC weld then go for it. ARC has much better penetration and looks cleaner. A 6011 stick should do the trick.

        I always use cold galvanizing compund to cover the weld and then paint over it to thoroughly prevent rust. You can get "cold gal" at most major hardware or home improvement stores. Home Depot caries it.
        Totally opposite of what I feel about welding. Any one else? Best 2 out of 3.
        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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        • #5
          I used to weld for a living on commercial structures that were load bearing. Our welds were consistently x-rayed for "inclusions" and penetration. I've also seen an ARC weld and a MIG weld compared side by side on an X-ray. The penetration and strength is night and day betwen the two. The ARC weld is by far the strongest and most penetrating. MIG welding is for very light duty welding only. TIG on the other hand is much stronger than MIG. Is it possible you were thinking of TIG Jeff?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by fastTA
            I used to weld for a living on commercial structures that were load bearing. Our welds were consistently x-rayed for "inclusions" and penetration. I've also seen an ARC weld and a MIG weld compared side by side on an X-ray. The penetration and strength is night and day betwen the two. The ARC weld is by far the strongest and most penetrating. MIG welding is for very light duty welding only. TIG on the other hand is much stronger than MIG. Is it possible you were thinking of TIG Jeff?
            Oh anything is possible. See the difference is you haven't compared MY arc welding with MY mig welding. My method of welding thin stuff is strike the arc which burns a hole in it then plug the hole.
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
              Oh anything is possible. See the difference is you haven't compared MY arc welding with MY mig welding. My method of welding thin stuff is strike the arc which burns a hole in it then plug the hole.
              I gotcha. Or you could always burn the hole in it with the arc, then partially fill it with the mig, and then JB Weld the rest!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by fastTA
                I gotcha. Or you could always burn the hole in it with the arc, then partially fill it with the mig, and then JB Weld the rest!
                I hadn't thought of that! LOL
                2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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                • #9
                  I would defiantly go with the ARC welding rather than MIG as its to easy to get "cold lap" with a mig, which is a great place for stress cracks to start. I would recommend a 3/32 6010 first weld then a nice 3/32 or 1/8 7018 weld to cover up the 6010 and it will look nice, plus the added tensile strength of the 7018 is a nice benefit! You get the best of all worlds with the two step method Deep penitration on the braket plus the added tensile strength and looks of the 7018.

                  Eric W.

                  89 Firebird Formula WS6
                  Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
                  6.2L/382.97 ci
                  Custom PROM Dyno tuned
                  WCT-5 speed
                  BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
                  Boss MS 18" Rims
                  Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
                  Custom Dual exhaust
                  1LE upgrade
                  Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
                  In a constant state of upgrade!

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                  • #10
                    Well that's 2 out of 3 dentist recommend ARC welding.
                    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
                      Well that's 2 out of 3 dentist recommend ARC welding.
                      So Jeff.........did the dentist next to you whack you in the head in an attempt to kill the fly, or did the squirrel run up your pants and latch on to the family jewels?


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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by fastTA
                        So Jeff.........did the dentist next to you whack you in the head in an attempt to kill the fly, or did the squirrel run up your pants and latch on to the family jewels?


                        It must have been the fly. I don't remember that. I would have remembered the squirrel.
                        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          ARC weld them on.Mig welding is ok but is normally used someone who cant weld.Arc welding with a 60XX series rod is good for penetrading paint,rust,or impurities.If its cleaned up use a 70XX series rod its alot stronger than a 60XX series.Mig and arc welding are just as strong as each other it justs depends on whos welding ,how there machine is setup and what series rod or wire there using(strength per square inch).Not trying to get all technical but Im certified In both mig and stick structral bridge code and would like to see the job done right so no one gets hurt.
                          99' TA 347 H/C MS4, QTP headers, 9' 4.11's
                          11.05@ 125 on motor, 9.80 @142 on nitrous

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