If you want a guaranteed 15HP gain, send you PCM to one of the mail-order tuners line pcmforless.com, MadZ28 or Ed Wright/Fast Chips. You will not get that kind of a gain out of any plug-in programmer, and the mail-order tune will cost you less.
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
I wouldn't waste my money on a flow booster. The gains are not noticable and it's expensive. If you really want to scoop the air into the throttle body, your can make one yourself for a lot cheaper. I would get a free flowing air filtration system instead. K&N makes a nice cool air induction kit, it's easy to install and you will likely feel the boost in hp. Most of the reprograms will claim about a 10% boost, in ideal conditions, I have never heard of that much gain from anyone that has done it.(I may be wrong) If your car is mostly stock you probably won't get a whole lot of bang for $200. You might just save and wait then throw on a nice catback exhaust system and the air filter at the same time...you will definantly feel the gains then.
Anyone have a list of those "Free Mods" for F-bodies?
Darrin C
'97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....
Its fairly easy to do too. You'll need a small piece of hard line you can use as a splice and a towel to keep coolant from getting on the Opti. Just disconnect both hoses and put them on the splice. Just make 10000000% sure they are tight and will not come loose or allow coolant to leak. After that, simply plug the ports on the throttle body and you're done. If there's anything I've forgotten, I'm sure someone else will chime in and fill the gaps.
Why did GM decide to route coolant through the throttle body anyway?? What purpose does it serve?
Darrin C
'97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....
Its fairly easy to do too. You'll need a small piece of hard line you can use as a splice and a towel to keep coolant from getting on the Opti. Just disconnect both hoses and put them on the splice. Just make 10000000% sure they are tight and will not come loose or allow coolant to leak. After that, simply plug the ports on the throttle body and you're done. If there's anything I've forgotten, I'm sure someone else will chime in and fill the gaps.
Only 1993/94 models need a 3/8" barbed hose connector to connect the two TB hoses together.
On 95-97 models, you remove the little rubber elbow from the passenger side connection/metal tube from back of heads and discard it. Pull the hose off the driver's side TB connection, and connect that hose to the point on the metal tube from the back of the heads where the rubber elbow used to connect. No connector required.
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
Only 1993/94 models need a 3/8" barbed hose connector to connect the two TB hoses together.
On 95-97 models, you remove the little rubber elbow from the passenger side connection/metal tube from back of heads and discard it. Pull the hose off the driver's side TB connection, and connect that hose to the point on the metal tube from the back of the heads where the rubber elbow used to connect. No connector required.
As I said, someone would correct where I was wrong. Thanks Fred . As always, you da man. I didn't know there was a difference on the 95-97s. Almost like someone at GM wanted to make it easier for owners to do this mod. Hmmmmm
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