Aluminum driveshaft ??'s

[LoudLT1]

should i replace my stock 95 Z28 steel driveshaft with an LS1 Aluminum driveshaft ?
what would the benefits be?
what should i pay?
thanks,
ed

[Z Ya Later]

You'll pick up some extra power. Check it out...(this is for the 1LE unit, very similar)

http://ws6.com/mod-1.htm

If you have the vibration/droning problem, you'll also be rid of that. The only drawback is that a slight whine may become present (at least with the 1LE unit...I'm not sure about the LS1 unit). From GMPartsDirect, the 1LE unit is $269.74 shipped. The LS1 unit is $276.37 shipped. Both are brand new. Hope this helps.

[darkz711]

Whats the difference between the 1LE and the LS1 driveshaft. I too am going to be getting a new driveshaft, lots of vibration and droning (along with some engine problems too) but I mean if one is better than the other, for $6 i dont think i mind paying extra. Are there any different benefits? and will the LS1 fit the LT1/T56 setup without a problem?

[Z Ya Later]

Whats the difference between the 1LE and the LS1 driveshaft. I too am going to be getting a new driveshaft, lots of vibration and droning (along with some engine problems too) but I mean if one is better than the other, for $6 i dont think i mind paying extra. Are there any different benefits? and will the LS1 fit the LT1/T56 setup without a problem?

The LS1 unit will fit the LT1/T-56 setup, but the 1LE is a little bigger and stronger. I've heard stories of the LS1 unit twisting in an LT1 application with some mods. I'll dig up the story for ya. I'd go with the 1LE unit myself...in fact, I did lol.

[Rob B (shoebox)]

should i replace my stock 95 Z28 steel driveshaft with an LS1 Aluminum driveshaft ?
what would the benefits be?
what should i pay?
thanks,
ed

Unless you are chasing a vibration problem that you think is in the driveshaft, I would not bother to change it.

In order of strongest to weakest:
stock steel
1LE
LS1

[Joe 1320]

I subscribe to the theory that every little bit helps. In order to get my stockish 97 down to a 13.0, I had to do alot of little mods that folks said weren't worth it. Maybe by themselves they weren't worth much, but collectively they all add up. A 1 LE driveshaft as mentioned, will free up some of the power lost by the stock steel driveshaft. Because aluminum doesn't dampen vibrations as well as steel, any driveline noise from the rear axle is transmitted right up the shaft and to the transmission and ultimately to the chassis. All that will be more pronounced if you switch to polyurethane trans mounts and motor mounts. When my ring and pinion was starting to go away, the resulting noise that should have been fairly contained in the rear axle assembly was transmitted to the trans and I could have sworn that the trans was heading south. While this tendency is not bad, just be aware that you will most likely hear a few more noises than stock. If you already have a louder exhaust, you probably won't notice. I say get one, it helps increase the torque available to the wheels.

[Z Ya Later]

Here's why I'd go with the 1LE unit instead...

http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/membe...=348183&page=3

That is an LS1 shaft on an LT1 Z. Thanks for the link Craig

[darkz711]

One more question... stupid i know but just wondering...

can i still get the free one from the dealer because of the service bulletin or does my car need to be under warrenty?

I do have crazy vibration, N20LT4bird tested it out with me, theres vibration from that and theres also some vibration from the motor, so maybe this can solve half my problem.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Unfortunately, for a TSB, it has to be under warranty.
If you're lucky, they might agree to install it if you have the part. You might be able to get them to give in by constantly harassing them, but I highly doubt it.

[Benm109]

What's the part number for the 1LE driveshaft?