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  • wiring questions

    who here is really good at electrical wires on a 4th gen???
    1996 Z28 body, the rest...drag car

  • #2
    Originally posted by MurphysLaw
    who here is really good at electrical wires on a 4th gen???
    What exactly are you looking to do?

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    • #3
      Yupppp..... pick a topic....

      -PCM
      -body
      -audio system
      -lighting
      -aftermarket accessories
      -whatever?????

      Nobody know everything, but everyone knows something.....
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        thanks Fred and Kevin! i really need help cause i'm seriously stumped and tired.

        okay, my gauge lights do not come on; my fog lights do not come on; ash tray light in center console does not come on.

        the cig lighter outlet works great!

        where can i start to trouble shot this problem??????

        thank you soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much for your help Fred, thank you to Kevin!!!!
        1996 Z28 body, the rest...drag car

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        • #5
          The cigarette lighter and accessory are on separate fuses. Check fuse #9, it is for the instrument cluster. As far as the driving lights, they are on a relay. I would also make sure there wasn't a short at the switch for the driving lights.

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          • #6
            fuse 9 good, i'll check a short with the driving lights.

            this is pretty nerve racking, i have a lot of things unplugged cause i rip out my hvac stuff and i've been going over all of the wires that have been disconnected. i think ive found out what all of them are with the exception of a connector in the center console area and the big connector that comes out right in front of the center console area. i have a site with some pictures and captions explaining my situaution if you want to check them out?

            http://community.webshots.com/album/283089844dsBPBC


            ive been using this diagram to help me out trouble shoot but its not really working....
            http://shbox.com/1/interior_lights_1995.jpg
            1996 Z28 body, the rest...drag car

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            • #7
              for 4 freakin days ive been working on this problem...you know what it was????

              the activiation prong for the lights on the headlight switch was pushed and bent done against the connecter (on the head light switch right next to fog light and dimmer) so i straightened it out...plugged the sucker up and then FINALLY it dinged and the lights came on in the dash, lights come on on the headlight switch, dimmer works.....

              im gonna go check to see whats up with the foglights and see if those work now and then see is the ashtray light comes on. for some reason in that diagram it looks like the ash tray light is on the same circuit (fuse??)

              thank you so much Kevin...I would have never found that stupid thing if you didnt say check for a short in the head light switch, ive been checking grounds, shorts in fuse box...trust me...EVERYTHING.

              i dont think i want to hook up a painless street legal chassis wiring now......unless i can fly your butt over here! my roll cage is almost done too, just for more metal to come in.
              1996 Z28 body, the rest...drag car

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              • #8
                cool, i also found out through shoeboxs site that one of the other connectors was for the trunk button...so everything else is in perfect working condition. the only thing left is to hook up the csi water pump and id like to do the fan switch mod.

                i know that its safe to use a 30 amp switch for the water pump and i think im going to refer to kens webtsite on how to hook it up with activation LEDs, but whats size diode? common sense tells me 470k???

                as for the fans...is it safe to run ANY amp switch? thanks everyone.
                1996 Z28 body, the rest...drag car

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                • #9
                  For the fan switch, I'm using a 3A@125 VAC (or 1A@250 VAC), which is a pretty low amp rating. It's been working perfectly so far for me. I think Kevin Blown TA has been using a 6A@125 switch for several years with no problem.

                  For the LEDs, you can actually buy 12V ones that have internal resistors. I wanted small, so mine are 3mm. The green can take 12V, and the yellow and red can only take 3 volts. I had to use 680 Ohm resistors to decrease the voltage to ~2.7 on the yellow/red LEDs.
                  94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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                  • #10
                    well I'm thinking that as long as you have more than what you suppose to then you'll be fine. I'm slightly new to electronics...making my own circuits and things of that sort. So say if a circuit calls for a 3A 125V AC, like you have...you can actually stick a 20A 125V AC in correct?? My main goal is to get a bigger switch in the ciruit rather than the stealthy ones like you have in your ash tray.


                    I thought the red ones could take 12V? I did not know that!
                    1996 Z28 body, the rest...drag car

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                    • #11
                      Sorry I wasn't clear about the LEDs...I was just mentioning the specific ones I got. All the voltages I mentioned were specific to my application, so a specific color doesn't mean a specific voltage (i.e. I found green LEDs also in the 3V, 5V, 12V ranges). You might be able to find 12V red LEDs. However, I wasn't able to after searching through Radio Shack and Frys.

                      Also, a larger amp switch is fine. You can go as high as you want. You only have to watch out if you go lower than what the application calls for...the contacts might melt interally, from what I've heard.

                      One of the switches in the ashtray used to be a 30A switch, but was too bulkly for me to hide, to I got the smaller switch

                      Also, some suggest getting a DC switch for a DC application, however, Jeff (the one who taught me this stuff ) and I agree it's probably just a marketing scheme.
                      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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