95 TA Cooling Fan Question

[imwlw83]

Ok, I have tinkering for about a week, I finially got the cable from AKM and that is really cool. I did the bypass for the coolant lines going to the throttlebody, and removed the AIR pump. I just caped the lines on the exhaust manifolds for now, pulled out the pump with all the hoses and tubes, it does give you a bit more room. OK now is the weird stuff, my engine started to get pretty warm when i was testing out everything, i checked and my cooling fans where not running, but if i turned on the A/C they would come on. This is disturbing. Any suggestions. Also the compressor for the A/C has seezed so i pulled the A/C relay.

[Rob B (shoebox)]

The fans don't come on until 226°. Did you wait that long?

[imwlw83]

it was pretty warm, i had drove it for about 5 miles or so, and then it was idling in the drive way when i noticed that the niddle was going up and not stoping, so it short, i am not sure but the gauge was way over what it normally runs.

[Rob B (shoebox)]

Since you have that cable for your PC, you can monitor your PCM with some software and see what temp it is seeing (regardless of what the gauge says).

[94 formula]

Like Rob B said the first fan doesn't kick on till 226 and I think the second one is like 10 degrees after that. The reason you normally don't see it so warm is because when your driving air flows over the radiator and keeps it much cooler. If you already have the cable why not just order programming from www.pcmforless.com and have him lower your fan temps as well as give you a tune thats is good for some horsepower. Another option you have is to install a fan switch. Also having a fan kick on with the AC is normal.

[TruckMuddr]

Yea, Since the computer and the gauge has different temp sensors, I'd check to see what the computer thinks the temp is.

EDIT: Did you tell the computer that the AIR Pump isn't there anymore?!?

[imwlw83]

I will do so more test this afternoon. I didnt tell the computer that the pump is going, i havent purchased software yet. I have been testing TTS Powersystems Datamaster. Not sure if you can do that with any free software, I think you need like LT1_edit. The gauges on this car suck anyway, my oil pressure reads in the red at idle and about 35 or 40 when in motion. I put a new sending unit and it seems to be worse. I think i need to get an aftermarket gauge set.

[imwlw83]

Ok, I really love that software and cable. The fan relays are working like a champ and the fans are coming on, the first comes on at 227 degrees, the gauge is reading close, but it is low. That brings up another question that i will post in a different thread. Thanks for everyone's help. Now i just have to learn how to read that software, some is easy , but i will have to break out the manual for some of the codes.

[Injuneer]

I have an online guide to interpreting scanner data that might help:

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm

In your OBD-I 1995, you don't have to "tell the computer that the AIR Pump isn't there anymore".... you can remove the entire system, and as long as there is a good fuse in the power supply that (used to) support the pump, you will not get a code or SES.

You can not alter any PCM parameters with scan software like DataMaster or FreeScan. You need programming software like TunerCat or LT1_Edit.

[imwlw83]

You know something Injuneer, you have to be the smartest guy i know. I read the link you posted , very helpful, it did give me a headache though. I will match up the artical with my readings and see what i get , thanks for the help. My next project is to make my dash look almost like yours, going to put the gauges in the vents, my oil pressure gauge is reading 0 at idle now, after i put the new sending unit, the old one showed much better pressure. I am hoping its the gauge and a mechanical autometer model should do the trick, either that i will be burning this engine up really soon.