Has anyone ever heard of this. I read it on another forum. They said that gm recommended at 30k miles flushing the engine block for sludge and deposits. The post mentioned using desiel for about 1 min , the drain, fill with oil to rinse, do this about 3 times. It is supposed to clean galley ways to restore oil pressue readings.
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LT1 engine block flush
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z28_xxx
Thats a new one! Diesel and oil in the cooling system??
How are you going to flush oil out of the cooling system with water? or do
you finish with diesel as that will clear out the oil?
I don't see it happening.
Get under neath the car - crack open the 2 drain plugs and drain.
Drain the radiator. Refill. If your adventourous - use the prestone
cleaner and redrain everything.
I've use a prestone flushing adapter kit with a garden hose. You can
buy another small piece of rubber hose and not have to permenantly
install it.
GM also makes these pellets which might be a cause of sludge.
Originally posted by imwlw83Has anyone ever heard of this. I read it on another forum. They said that gm recommended at 30k miles flushing the engine block for sludge and deposits. The post mentioned using desiel for about 1 min , the drain, fill with oil to rinse, do this about 3 times. It is supposed to clean galley ways to restore oil pressue readings.
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I think with the term "block flush", he meant with respect to the oil system, not the cooling system. If in fact he meant flushing the coolant system with oil, the answer is a simple "no".
I have never seen a GM recommendation for any sort of block flush on these cars. With the correct oil/filter change interval and high quality detergant oil, there should be little or no "sludge" buildup. "Block Flush" is a service that dealers and quickie oil change shops try to sell you to make big profits on useless services.
I pulled my engine apart at 65K miles for a stroker build up, and it was spotless inside.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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I was talking about flushing the oil system in the block. I just got the car, it has 174k on the odometer, but the person i bought it from says the motor was rebuilt about 30k ago. Not sure how well they kept to a maintenance schedule. It sounded like an option, the person they were replying to had the say stock oil gauge problem that i have. I figured it couldnt hurt. But if its crap i wont do it.... What you think?95 Trans Am, K&N CAI, LT4 knock module, Flowmaster exhuast, Grant GT steering wheel, Sony head unit w/sub, Autometer Gauges
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fastTa
Unless you are using Penzoil, there should be no reason to "flush" the oiling galley of the block. I also pulled apart my LT1 for a build at 77k and it too was extremely clean inside. No buildup whatsoever. I used 10W30 Mobil 1.
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I have seen this "block Flush" done before with deisel fuel at auto wreckers when they geat a car in that they can resell. Its kind of a snake in the grass way of cleaning up a car/truck for sale. All it really does is on a high milage vehicle is clean up the engine and completly flush all dirty oil to give the car the apperance of running clean, as exsesive blowby will darken the oil with deposits. So when a person pulls out the dipstick the oil is a gleaming gold rather than a dark brown/black color. But then after 1000 miles its back to normal and you have a car that may or may not pass inspection, but the dirty sales man has your money.
Eric W.
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