Headers

[NVMYZ]

I have a 97 Z, and i'm looking to get some headers....was wanting some feed back on what kind (long tube vs shortys) and brands.....don't want to spend real big bucks......
Do they need to be coated?????(jet-hot)

if I get a y-pipe do I need to get the o2 simulators???I have 2 cats....

[Injuneer]

First thing you have to determine is what emissions regulations you have to meet. In CA for example, headers need to have a CARB-EO sticker, which means you can't legally use anything other than a set of shorties specifically designed for the dual-cat configurations. Those headers keep the stock cats in the stock location, and don't require a Y-pipe. They also produce limited gains when compared to other designs.

Long tubes are technically not "smog legal" on any LT1, because they would relocate the cat(s). But if you don't have to meet any "visual" requirements, they would give the best overall results. You would need a custom dual cat Y-pipe with most long tube designs. I think the FLP long tubes come with dual bullet cats and all emissions hookups, and full cera-metallic coatings.... approx $1,250.

As long as you keep the cats, you can keep the afer-cat O2 sensors. If you delete the cats, you have to use sims, or have the sensors "programmed out" of the PCM

In between, you would get a high qualtiy header for a 94/95 single-cat setup, use either a dual-cat Y-pipe, or the Y-pipe that comes with most single-cat short- and mid-length headers. Then use an "S" pipe to connect the 94/95 setup to your stock catback, or an aftermarket catback.

Cera-metallic coating is strongly recommended... reduces rust and stress cracking, reduces under hood temperatures, and helps increase power by keeping the heat in the exhaust gasses.

First.... determine what emissions you need to meet, if any. Then decide what level of performance you are looking for. You aren't necessarily going to use the same headers on a relatively stock engine as you would on a 500HP stroker setup.

[NVMYZ]

Headers

I don't have to pass any emissions regulations.......Do I need to get headers for a 97 Z or can I get some for 93-96 camaro?????They're cheaper....

[Doug 97SS]

You need to buy headers for a 96-97 LT1. Unless you are eliminating every smog device. (which I don't believe in doing). I bought a set of Pacesetter Long Tube (coated) for my 97 SS (I haven't installed them yet) i paid $399 for them (yes brand new) and they are made REALLY nice. I was going to go with JetHot but the quality looks really good to me. So I am hoping to get them on later this year.

I will need to get the PCM tuned too and I bought the Y-pipe that goes with the headers but I will need cats welded into it. Once all said and done I am hoping for 20hp at the wheels. ANything more I will take.

[Joe 1320]

In my honest opinion unless you are building a track car, keep it smog legal. Whether you have inspection or not, when it comes time to sell the car (and there always comes a time) the car moves faster and for better money when it's done right.

Some of the gains that long tubes produce comes from the elimination of the factory Y pipe which is crappy. There is 10 HP right there. I happen to use SLP dual cat shorties and a random tech high flow dual cat Y pipe. The car is a basic automatic bolt on car still with stock converter and runs 13.0s at 107 mph. That's right with the long tube cars and I'm convinced the shorties and the Y pipe are only a couple of HP down from long tubes. Ground clearance is great, it's smog legal and the power increase was noticeable.

Just an opinion.....

[Injuneer]

You need to buy headers for a 96-97 LT1. Unless you are eliminating every smog device. (which I don't believe in doing).

Why would that be? The 93-95 headers include the connections for AIR and EGR. Adapters required for AIR tube connections, but no big deal. There are "dual-cat" Y-pipes available for several 93-95 header designs. The only thing that would be missing if you directly bolted a 93-95 header on a 96/97 car would be the extra cat and the after-cat O2 bungs. The "true" 96/97 headers are terrible designs, because they force the drivers side tubes upward in an awkward configuration so they match the stock drivers side cat location.

I will need to get the PCM tuned too and I bought the Y-pipe that goes with the headers but I will need cats welded into it. Once all said and done I am hoping for 20hp at the wheels. ANything more I will take.

Why do you need a PCM tune for headers, if you are hooking up all the emissions? You will gain some volumeteric efficiency, but the MAF sensor "sees" the extra flow. A PCM tune is always a good idea, to pick up the 15HP available by leaning out the excessively rich stock PE mode target A/F ratios. But a tune is not mandatory after a header install in my experience.

[raroZ28]

You need to buy headers for a 96-97 LT1. Unless you are eliminating every smog device. (which I don't believe in doing).

You can use 94-95 headers. It's the route I'm going. My car is dropped, so putting on LT's is out of the question, and I have no interest in going shorty. The gains just aren't even worth the install. You can't get a midlength for a 96-97 I don't think. They're all kinda shorty for the most part cause they're made to re-use the stock cats.

If you plan on lowering your car in the future, look into Mac mid lengths, as&m, or jba or something. Don't go shorty..

[Doug 97SS]

Why would that be? The 93-95 headers include the connections for AIR and EGR. Adapters required for AIR tube connections, but no big deal. There are "dual-cat" Y-pipes available for several 93-95 header designs. The only thing that would be missing if you directly bolted a 93-95 header on a 96/97 car would be the extra cat and the after-cat O2 bungs. The "true" 96/97 headers are terrible designs, because they force the drivers side tubes upward in an awkward configuration so they match the stock drivers side cat location.

Because to stay LEGAL you can't move the cats. So I said the 96-97 Style. I agree they aren't as good but to be legal thats what he has to go with. Yes the AS&M mid lengths (94-97 F-body) are probably the best compromise (as you can attest with your own highhorsepower monster) BUT if he moves the cat its "technically" illegal. Because it won't pass a visual. Granted if everything is "there" he will probably pass. My first choice was the AS&M Dual Cat Header package from THunderracing, technically illegal, but would pass everything else etc and everything was in the kit.

Why do you need a PCM tune for headers, if you are hooking up all the emissions? You will gain some volumeteric efficiency, but the MAF sensor "sees" the extra flow. A PCM tune is always a good idea, to pick up the 15HP available by leaning out the excessively rich stock PE mode target A/F ratios. But a tune is not mandatory after a header install in my experience.

You are right, but if I want to do this right, why not? I have seen dyno tuning on Header only cars and how much better they run when tuned properly. Hence me stating that.

No harm no foul.

[NVMYZ]

raroz28

What kind of headers are you getting?????I have a 97 Z, I've put lowering springs on it........are you getting a off road y-pipe?????are they going to be coated?????

[raroZ28]

What kind of headers are you getting?????I have a 97 Z, I've put lowering springs on it........are you getting a off road y-pipe?????are they going to be coated?????

I bought mac headers, coated by paul barry motorsports. Yes it has an off road Y pipe. You have to get your headers coated, it's the only way to keep the engine bay cool, prevents fires, saves a couple HP, makes the headers last longer, etc.... MAC comes with a coating but I hear it sucks. If you ever see pics of a MAC that's been on for a year, it's all rusted and nasty looking. If your car is lowered, and you want a good header that won't cost you a ton, look into them. You can't go longtube with a lowered car. I think some people have. Their collector sits about 2" from the ground too. Hit a pot hole and bam, you got a scraped header, or worse, busted header bolts in the head. Go with a mid-length if you're lowered.

[markd79ta]

My first choice:

http://www.azspeed-marine.com/as19lt1flotu.htm


My second choice:

http://www.macperformance.com/store/...Product_ID=457

[Jeff_in_Atl]

But the SLPs are stainless teel. http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=30015C stainless = no rust. The ASMs and MACs are not. The MACs have a 1 5/8" tubs. The SLPs and AS&M have 1 3/4".

[Injuneer]

But the purpose of the cera-metallic coating goes beyond preventing rust. Many people who buy the SLP stainless headers also have them coated. The coating helps scavenging and reduces under hood temperatures.

[markd79ta]

But the SLPs are stainless teel. http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=30015C stainless = no rust. The ASMs and MACs are not. The MACs have a 1 5/8" tubs. The SLPs and AS&M have 1 3/4".

The AS&Ms are also 14ga as well as HPC-coated (inner and outer)...they are incredible headers. The Macs are OK, and definitely win marks fore being affordable. I have seen the Macs w/ y-pipe for $399, and very user-friendly. Just about everything on my car is SLP, but I will go with one of these two for the headers depending on what I can afford when the time comes. I can get the Loudmouth and the Macs for less then the AS&Ms. Although, the AS&Ms are a much better product.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

But the purpose of the cera-metallic coating goes beyond preventing rust. Many people who buy the SLP stainless headers also have them coated. The coating helps scavenging and reduces under hood temperatures.

I realize that. You can get the SLPs in coated or non coated. I just hate it when headers rust. I've seen coated non stainless headers rust.