I pull the mtr last night. With the heads off the mtr turned very easy. I tured the mtr with my hand. Do that mean the mtr has bad compression? Or that the way it should be. 
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Did it have the spark plugs in the heads?2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen" -
The reason I ask the question is do I need to rebuild the bottom. If so where can I get a 383 stroker kit reasonably.
Or could just freshing up the stock block?
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The heads are off the motor. Its just the short block.Comment
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i dont see were any compression would be if the heads are off the block. so i would think that is normal.
just my .021996 Trans Am WS6
A4, 3" VForce Catback, Corvette C6 rims, Slotted and Drilled Rotors, 160*stat, BMR SFC, HPP3, B&M Shift Kit.
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Yea, redws6 is right...how can you have compression with the heads off? There is
with them off, whatsoever.
94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...Comment
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So should I rebuild the block?Comment
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well how many miles are on the block? take the pan off and look at the bearings, if there scored at all, then replace the bearings. if you wanna rebuild your block, it wont hurt. i guess it depends on how much money you wanna spend.1996 Trans Am WS6
A4, 3" VForce Catback, Corvette C6 rims, Slotted and Drilled Rotors, 160*stat, BMR SFC, HPP3, B&M Shift Kit.
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Since you have the heads off, I think you mean piston friction in the piston holes as you turn the crank...not compression. The short block should turn with minimal effort.
Since the heads are off, take a look at the cylinder walls. Is there any cross-hashing left on them? If there is, the block is in pretty good shape. Is there a ridge at the top of the piston hole? You can check this by running your finger nail along it to see if it catches. If there is a ridge, I would bore it and build it. If there isn't a ridge on any of the pistons, pull the main caps and at least one of the rod caps(if not all); take a look at the bearings. If there is any bronzing on them, I would overhaul it. Make sure to torque each cap to the proper spec exactly the way you pull it off before you move on to the next cap.
If your block appears to be in good shape without any scaring or ridges on the cylinder walls as well as specing the rod & main journals, you can pull apart the engine and put new bearings in and re-ring it. I use a ball-hone in the cylinders...they are a little more expensive, but well worth it.'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas JeffersonComment
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The cylinder walls have no ridges. No sign of bronze either. The mtr has 67000 miles. I what to make it a stroker mtr. Can do a kit and no machine work?
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If you do a stroker, even if you don't punch out the cylinders, you will likely have some clearance issues with the block that usually requires some light machining to accept the new crank + balancing + pressing on the pistons. Are you having this built or are you doing the assembly? By the way, what kit are you looking at?Originally posted by PonyriderThe cylinder walls have no ridges. No sign of bronze either. The mtr has 67000 miles. I what to make it a stroker mtr. Can do a kit and no machine work?'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas JeffersonComment
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I had plan on doing it myself at least what I'm capable of doing. I hope someone will tell me which kit or kits that will work for me.Comment
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To use a stroker crankshaft there is material that needs to be removed from the block. If you are replacing the crank, machining the block, etc I would not recommend DIY.
Have a reputable machine shop check all the clearances and do all the machining. You should get the block decked, bored, honed and allign hone checked. Unless you have calibrated your torque wrench within the last month i wouldn't even recommend assembling it yourself. Pay a pro to do that job because doing it wrong could get expensive fa$t.Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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It is pretty easy to blow up the engine, if the 383 stroker is done wrong. If you don't have any experience with it, I would suggest having somebody else do the work. Now, it is not cheap, expect to pay well over 1500 for fair kit (over 2000 for forged internals) + labor + machining + misc supplies, etc., etc. If you go with a cheap kit, don't expect it to last very long. If you are going to spend this much money, do it right.
It sounds like your current short block is a good candidate for a refresh, hot cam, ported heads, etc.; but, if you are going to go 383, listen to TraceZ.'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas JeffersonComment
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its pretty obvious you don't know what the hell your doing pony... STEP AWAY FROM THE CAR... LAY ALL TOOLS DOWN.. NOW EXIT THE SHOP....
and BTW... I am just blowing him crap... I work with this knucklehead.. REALLY I DO...
AL
1995 Z28 M6 Ragtop
Mods are:
18X9 1/2 ZO6 rims
Hot Wheels steering wheel cover
Hurst Classic Shifter Ball with 6-speed pattern
K&N CAI , I LIKE IT!! it REALLY does make a difference!
more pictures of the hooptieComment
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