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  • breaking up after warm

    After my car warms up it starts running rough pops through the exhaust and if i hit the gas it breaks ups bad and hardly wants to do that.It has 129,000 on it.I just purchased it in december.I first found the elbow was ripped badly at the tb.Raplaced that with the trick flow piece.Then after reading 94 formulas forum i replaced the coil and ic module still no luck.I bought the car knowing it had this problem but when i test drove it , it ran fine.I figured it was the opti unit but after reading some of the forums i started with some of the simpler things.The check engine light dosen't come on but one time i did see it flash when i was reving it up which lead me to believe it was the ignition system.I'm guessing its the original opti and older wires.The wires look old.If i let the car run and it warms up to 200 degrees or slightly over thats exactly went it starts doing this.Help i dont want to spend the money and time replacing the opti if its not the problem.I'm go to replace the fuel filter this week also.Thanks for any help love the info on this site.

  • #2
    I have the same exact problem with my car. It just started before I put it away for the winter. So, when I pull it out in a couple weeks, I will be dealing with it. I found that spacing the coil and I/C module further away from the head has made the problem better, but it hasnt gone away. This leads me to believe this is the problem area. I replaced it with another IC and coil (used) and the same thing..... My opti is brand new too, but that doesnt mean anything..... I suppose it could be fuel filter issue, but I think I remember replacing mine not too long ago. Joe1320 mentioned the silicone grease between the IC and the bracket could be contibuting to the problem. So, I dont know the answer to your problem......ive got to figure it out too! If I find anything, ill let you know. If you find anything.....let me know, will you?
    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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    • #3
      coolant temp sensor, o2 sensor?? How are they?
      97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

      01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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      • #4
        Look at the things that "deteriorate" as they heat up... you already did the IC Module, but "spacing" it as described above might help. The optical sensor in the Opti could become heat sensitive. The wire insulation could lose its dielectric strength as it heats up. A heat soaked IAT sensor could be causing a bit of spark retard that could be loosely interpreted as a miss. Injectors use electric coils to move the internals and they could become sensitive to heat.

        Does it run fine on cold start, then after about 3 minutes beging to run poorly, and never recover until the next cold start? Or does it run fine cold, and run fine for a decent period of time after the engine heats up, only starting to run poorly if the coolant temp goes above 200degF?
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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        • #5
          breaking up after warm up

          I never let it cool back down and trying to run it again so i cant answer your question.I know the past owner put a new water pump and radiator on the car within the past year and after reading some of the forums i was wondering if thats what could have lead to this problem.Meaning a leaking water pump contaminating the opti over time.He claimed he only put about 2,000 miles on it and spent 2,000 in repairs and was tired of it.

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          • #6
            breaking up after warm up

            Yes it does run fine until it hit about 200 degrees and then it just goes to pot.But as i said earlier i never let it cool back down and refiring it again.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Injuneer
              Does it run fine on cold start, then after about 3 minutes beging to run poorly, and never recover until the next cold start? Or does it run fine cold, and run fine for a decent period of time after the engine heats up, only starting to run poorly if the coolant temp goes above 200degF?
              I dunno if he ever solved his problem, but I found this with a search...you've described my problem almost to the letter...I'v emade the mistake of throwing parts at instead of just having someone with a laptop do their magic
              1998 TA M6 SLP Lid, Cold Air and Bellow, Flowmaster 3", Centerforce DF, Fast Toys MAF ends, JET skip shift eliminator 312rwhp/366rwtq

              92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC For Sale

              Visit Central Jersey Mustangs & Fords

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              • #8
                still have the problem

                No i never did fix the problem yet.Have you fixed yours and if you did how did you figure it out.Thanks for the help.Funding and fustration halted the prodject.

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                • #9
                  never fixed mine either...funding and frustration halted mine as well...

                  i got some O2 sensors yesterday, but i doubt it'll fix the issue...
                  1998 TA M6 SLP Lid, Cold Air and Bellow, Flowmaster 3", Centerforce DF, Fast Toys MAF ends, JET skip shift eliminator 312rwhp/366rwtq

                  92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC For Sale

                  Visit Central Jersey Mustangs & Fords

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Injuneer
                    does it run fine cold, and run fine for a decent period of time after the engine heats up, only starting to run poorly if the coolant temp goes above 200degF?
                    I have that exact problem, Fred. What do you think it is? The spacing? The IC module?
                    Hercules



                    2008 Sunburst Metallic HHR LT

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                    • #11
                      update

                      I replaced my ic module the coil and spaced them about an inch and it still ran the same.I did notice my new coil glowing blue when revving the engine on both sides?I'm selling my second mower so next month I geuss i'll replace the opti, seals and the plugs and wires.I also replaced the thermo stat and installed a tb bypass kit.After that it still did its normal hissy fit but it idles high then start jumping up and down and quits?I had a 96 chevy do the same thing but never qiut and ran fine but just idled up and down like this.It ended up being the EGR value.Wonder if mine is hanging up?

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                      • #12
                        I think I finally got mine nailed down. I was driving and the service engine light came on for a second and shut off again. I almost thought that I imagined it......I hooked up the scanner and found a stored code for the bank 2 sensor 1 O2 sensor. I looked at it on the scanner and it was stuck right on .45 volts.....wierd. So, I swapped it out and at the same time installed an MSD blaster coil. I havent had the problem since......so hoopefully either one (or both) fixed it.......
                        96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                        11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by FireFinder20
                          never fixed mine either...funding and frustration halted mine as well...

                          i got some O2 sensors yesterday, but i doubt it'll fix the issue...

                          as i thought...didn't do a damned thing


                          the LT-1 in my squad car runs like a friggin top...wtf can't my T/A?????????

                          the chopping block is on the horizon
                          1998 TA M6 SLP Lid, Cold Air and Bellow, Flowmaster 3", Centerforce DF, Fast Toys MAF ends, JET skip shift eliminator 312rwhp/366rwtq

                          92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC For Sale

                          Visit Central Jersey Mustangs & Fords

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
                            I think I finally got mine nailed down. I was driving and the service engine light came on for a second and shut off again. I almost thought that I imagined it......I hooked up the scanner and found a stored code for the bank 2 sensor 1 O2 sensor. I looked at it on the scanner and it was stuck right on .45 volts.....wierd. So, I swapped it out and at the same time installed an MSD blaster coil. I havent had the problem since......so hoopefully either one (or both) fixed it.......
                            Interesting. I'm having my plugs and wires redone. I'll tell them to change the O2 sensor while they're in there.
                            Hercules



                            2008 Sunburst Metallic HHR LT

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                            • #15
                              as it turns out, the opti was hosed...

                              the wheel inside was warped, replaced the opti, now she runs like a champ
                              1998 TA M6 SLP Lid, Cold Air and Bellow, Flowmaster 3", Centerforce DF, Fast Toys MAF ends, JET skip shift eliminator 312rwhp/366rwtq

                              92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC For Sale

                              Visit Central Jersey Mustangs & Fords

                              Comment

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