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Sup guys, new here with a question.

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  • Sup guys, new here with a question.

    I've got a 95 bird thats giving me a million headaches....literally. This car has such a bad miss and horrid idle that it sounds like a LARGELY cammed v8....it's really that bad. I've had a buddy throw it on his snap-on scanner and the only things that were found were random misfire and and a dead MAF. Welp, I replaced the MAF, plugs, and wires to no avail. What worries me is the SES light doesn't just come on....it flashes constantly. I seem to remember hearing that on an OBDII system that when that happens it signaling that the ecm has failed. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?

    Thanks in advance!
    1995 Blue T-Top 3.8L Auto Firebird
    1991 Blue T-Top 5.0L TBI Auto Camaro RS

  • #2
    Naw, when the light flashes that means you've got a major problem and need to get it resolved ASAP. Your ECM should be fine, that's common when you have a misfire (dealt with it myself). Which cylinder is misfiring? You may need to replace one or more of your coil packs (can't remember if GM kept the single pack from the original setup on the Buick 6 or not). Coil pack(s) are pretty easy to do, so don't fear that one. Whatever code is being thrown should tell you not only that you have misfire but also which cylinder it is, I believe (but I could be wrong).
    Steve
    79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
    87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
    93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
    http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

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    • #3
      Well, it never specified which cyl was actually misfiring....just said random misfire. As for the coil packs, there are 3 of them which run 2 plugs each. I've thought about the ciol packs being a suspect....but I don't know how to test them. Anyone know a test procedure?

      Thanks again!
      1995 Blue T-Top 3.8L Auto Firebird
      1991 Blue T-Top 5.0L TBI Auto Camaro RS

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      • #4
        3.8 Liter? Check all the wires to make sure that wires are routed correctly. Then, you might look at the coil packs - replace them if needed. You may also look at your fuel injectors. If one is clogged or not functioning, it will cause a problem like that too......
        Darrin C
        '97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
        07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....

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        • #5
          Alrighty, fuel or spark. I don't think fueling is an issue considering that if you stand next to the car while it's running you can catch a really good buzz. I'm gonna have to examine the coil packs. One has already been replaced, so this leads me to believe that the others or the newer one itself might be going out. Again, is there any way to test the coil packs? Ohm/Volt meter and look for certain readings maybe?

          Thanks in advance yet again guys!
          1995 Blue T-Top 3.8L Auto Firebird
          1991 Blue T-Top 5.0L TBI Auto Camaro RS

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          • #6
            The 3.8 liter uses a coil pack with three coils. Each coil drives two cylinders. The coilpack and module are sandwiched together, the coil being the top half. Check the resistance between the primary voltage towers on each coil. Each of the three coils should read the same resistance (approximately 5.7 if I remember correct) The actual resistnce right now isn't critical, what is critical is that each of the three coils has like resistance. If one is out of spec, you've found one problem. The ignition module is subject to heat soak and can be hard to diagnose when that is the cause of the misfire. I usually replace the coil(s) and module as a whole unit unless just one coil is out of spec.

            Before you go any farther, check all the fuses and relays. If one of the engine sensor fuses pops, it will exhibit some of the symptoms you describe. What caught my attention is a dead MAF. That's rare, most times it's an electrical problem. I suspect eitther a vacuum leak or an electrical problem. To rule out a vacuum leak, start the engine and spray starting fluid sparingly around all vacuum hose connections. If the engine responds to the starting fluid being sprayed, you found your leak. I would also pull the codes and see what has been stored.

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