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  • #1

    best fuel pump choice...

    ok im replacing my fuel pump on my 94 lt1., but want a pump with a higher flow for my s\c setup. i bought 30# ford injectors and am having pcmforless reprogram my pcm for the added boost etc. i have been doing some research and found that you need a harness for the fuel pump on the 94 f-body for afermarket pumps. where is the best\cheapest place i can pick up a high flow fuel pump with the harness for my 94 lt1. are there other pumps besides walbro which seems to be the most common aftermarket pump used, that i can use, such as holley, would i need a harness for the others like the walbro, ive never done a fuel pump in an f-body before so i need some suggestions. i seen that cutting a trap door above the fuel tank would probably be the easiest way to replace it. any suggestions would help, thanks alot!

    -chris
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  • #2
    Get the walbro. It comes with the pump, new sock filter, wiring adapter, etc.. Should be around $140. It's a 255 lph high flow pump.
    97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

    01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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    • #3
      http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/

      This is where I got mine. These guys have good prices on the walbro pumps.
      96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
      11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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      • #4
        Its possible to put a new in-tank pump in without a "harness". I run an in-tank Bosch 205LPH pump, in addition to an outboard pump of the same size. The Bosch pumps are excellent.

        Try Racetronix. They specialize in 4th Gen F-Bodys and offer an optional wiring setup the Walbro pump to keep voltage high. The only problem is that they seem to refuse to provide any sort of instructions with their stuff.

        http://www.racetronix.com/
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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        • #5
          ok i went ahead an ordered the 255 high pressure walbro from APE. thanks for the advice guys.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by paxton350
            ok i went ahead an ordered the 255 high pressure walbro from APE. thanks for the advice guys.

            You'll see when you get it apart, but you have to cut open the factory container (thats attached to the end of the sending unit) and pull the pump out, then epoxy it back together with a fuel resitant epoxy.....
            96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
            11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
              You'll see when you get it apart, but you have to cut open the factory container (thats attached to the end of the sending unit) and pull the pump out, then epoxy it back together with a fuel resitant epoxy.....
              You don't HAVE to do it that way. I eliminated that canister alltogether. I just clamped it down to the steel frame in there. I don't think it makes a difference as long as it isn't free floating around.
              97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

              01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

              Comment

              • #8
                The Racetronix view on why you might want to keep the bucket.....
                Why a Racetronix F-LT1 Fuel System?

                The LT1 F-body cars have a pump that is inside a plastic fill-bucket. The fill-bucket's inlet and check-valve system in combination with the fuel pump are designed to draw fuel from the bottom of the tank via suction. This keeps the bucket full at all times and the pump fully immersed in fuel regardless of the tank level so that when the tank is low on gas and you are doing some hard cornering or acceleration the pump does not run dry and start aerating (air bubbles) the fuel. This happens as the fuel sloshes from side to side in the tank leaving the center low on fuel. The F-LT1 cars have minimal to no baffling in them. This can cause detonation and possible engine damage. The bucket also allows the car to operate with lower fuel levels in the tank due to its scavenging effect. The bucket can also effect motor cranking time as the priming time is reduced under certain conditions. The return line from the fuel pressure regulator is diverted back into the bucket via a filter sock inside so that the unused fuel also helps keep the bucket full at all times. Keeping the pump constantly immersed in gas within the bucket can extend the pump's life by not allowing it to be exposed to open air. Open air within the tank contains moisture and in time will cause the pump to rust / seize up especially if left to sit for long periods of time without the tank topped-up (i.e. winter storage). The Racetronix pump assembly is modified so that it will seal in the bucket’s rubber check-valve so that its function is retained.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                Comment

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