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  • Crank pulley removal ?

    So its a lil late, been a long day and im not feeling creative. whats the simplest way to get the little (insert colorful word here) off???
    -Nick-
    95 A4 Z28

  • #2
    Always remember to check out Rob's web site for how to's. http://shbox.com/page/index.html
    Like this.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      i looked, guess it wasnt hard enuf.
      -Nick-
      95 A4 Z28

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      • #4
        Ok how the heck am i supposed to get the outer bolts off, is there some trick or are mine just rusted on that bad ??
        -Nick-
        95 A4 Z28

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        • #5
          Try spraying them down with PB blaster very well and let them soak overnight.
          1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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          • #6
            i used like a full can of wd 40 on them, im just guna grind it off then drill it out. ill go get new bolts 2maro. opti doesnt arrive til thursday anyway.
            -Nick-
            95 A4 Z28

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            • #7
              My car has been through three of those bad boys and I've never had to use a puller on it. It just falls off after you take the three bolts out. Here's what you do -- if you can, put the belt back on -- this will hold the pulley from turning while you wrench on the bolts. This should allow you to loosen them up without any problems - rusted or not. After you loosen them up, remove the belt before removing the bolts completely. Then, just get a long screwdriver and gently pry the pulley away from the base - the LT1 balancers are not pressed on like the typical harmonic balancers you've probably seen - without the bolts, they are barely hanging on. That's why they are easy to remove. If this method doen't work (excessive rust on the back of the pulley), then try a puller on it - but keep in mind, I've never had to use a puller.
              Darrin C
              '97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
              07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....

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              • #8
                NOOOOOOOOOOOO those arent some thing you can just go to the parts store and pick up, and they are not the same as any other small block chevy ones either. just get a breaker bar and really reef on them, and try short quick pulls too, some times they just need a jerk to come free. any use of an impact gun? that cant hurt.
                2000 WS6 T/A M6. Monster stage 3 clutch, flowmaster cat back, 4.10's, SLP lid, Hurst shifter.
                1996 Mustang GT 5 speed STOCK DD
                past rides:
                1996 Mustang GTS bright tangerine orange
                2003 Mach 1 azure blue drag car (10.90@118 record holder for fastest N/A mach)
                1969 Mach 1 house of colors candy apple red393 stroker 100 shot (10.829@125 in street trim)
                2003 Mach 1 Torched red FRPP aluminator/vortech 666RWHP
                2008 Mustang GT JDM stroker long block, Saleen 2.3 twin screw
                1980 Mustang L 13.7: 418 stroker
                1994 Z28 A4 rebuilt from wreck
                1994 Z28 A4 totaled

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                • #9
                  yup i got em off finaly, thank you impact wrench. (idk why i didnt think of that sooner)
                  -Nick-
                  95 A4 Z28

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 97LT1Z28
                    My car has been through three of those bad boys and I've never had to use a puller on it. It just falls off after you take the three bolts out. Here's what you do -- if you can, put the belt back on -- this will hold the pulley from turning while you wrench on the bolts. This should allow you to loosen them up without any problems - rusted or not. After you loosen them up, remove the belt before removing the bolts completely. Then, just get a long screwdriver and gently pry the pulley away from the base - the LT1 balancers are not pressed on like the typical harmonic balancers you've probably seen - without the bolts, they are barely hanging on. That's why they are easy to remove. If this method doen't work (excessive rust on the back of the pulley), then try a puller on it - but keep in mind, I've never had to use a puller.

                    the crank turned when i tried that
                    -Nick-
                    95 A4 Z28

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Jam something sturdy through the spokes of the pulley against something safe from harm to keep the pulley still. Not everyone has to use a puller to remove the pulley.
                      Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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                      • #12
                        i got it now, i needed it, lots of rust from when my water pump went over the summer . . .
                        -Nick-
                        95 A4 Z28

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