So i know the right way to line it up, but i have heard its realy temeramental and i dont wana screw it up. i can sort of get it up close ( i didnt take off the whole crank pulley assembly just the pulley itself ) its alright if i get it close and then spin it right ?? or will that force me to buy another 250 dollar part.
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You just need to get the cam dowel in the correct hole...
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by InjuneerYou just need to get the cam dowel in the correct hole...
OT: you seem to be the man...i know i respect the hell outta your opinion, so i hafta ask you: where do you take your car, or do you have a shop or something, because my car is running bad enough for me to drop it off a cliff, but i know i'll hate myself if i get rid of it...HELP!!1998 TA M6 SLP Lid, Cold Air and Bellow, Flowmaster 3", Centerforce DF, Fast Toys MAF ends, JET skip shift eliminator 312rwhp/366rwtq
92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC For Sale
Visit Central Jersey Mustangs & Fords
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Most of what's been done to my car, I've done myself. The exceptions are the stroker motor and TH400 conversion (Second Street Speed, Perkasie, PA) and the roll bar (Finish Line Performance, Hibernia, NJ.... no longer in existance)Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by InjuneerMost of what's been done to my car, I've done myself. The exceptions are the stroker motor and TH400 conversion (Second Street Speed, Perkasie, PA) and the roll bar (Finish Line Performance, Hibernia, NJ.... no longer in existance)
k...help!1998 TA M6 SLP Lid, Cold Air and Bellow, Flowmaster 3", Centerforce DF, Fast Toys MAF ends, JET skip shift eliminator 312rwhp/366rwtq
92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC For Sale
Visit Central Jersey Mustangs & Fords
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Are you simply replacing the Opti, or have you also done some other things while it was apart, like swap the cam?Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Y
You can't put it on wrong, because if the dowel pin isn't in the slot, the entire opti housing won't sit flush on the three bolt hole mating surfaces that are on the timing cover. You will know once you lined it up right.
As for testing it? I would just assume that if you bought a new opti, and got the pin lined up that it is going to work just fine. I am not sure about starting the engine with all of those sensors, fans, etc etc unplugged. I assume the engine would run, just you would get a super super bright check engine light hahah. Anyway, I would just trust your work and put it back together, it will run.
...TIm
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Originally posted by FireFinder20is there a way to test the opti to make sure it's working properly? i've replaced the plugs, cap and rotor, coil...going to get a module in the next few days, fuel pressure tested normal and all the sensors tested normal on the scanner...
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related problem?
Just wondering i'm having problems with may z after warms up and it starts breaking up.I already replaced the ic module ,coil and spaced them.I was wondering if you had this same problem and thats why your replacing your opti.I think this maybe my problem also or the cap and maybe wires.Does the ses light come on when the opti goes bad? My car doesn't even trigger the ses light when it acts up?You can check my other posts anyone with info post 93 camaro breaking up after warm up.I explained lot of the symptoms and what i've tried in these post.Thanks and just take your time your install will go alright.
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Originally posted by 93/96 f-body.Does the ses light come on when the opti goes bad? My car doesn't even trigger the ses light when it acts up?
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thanks for the input guys..turns out the damn P/S pump was leaking on a side i couldn'r readily see...I replaced it yesterday, dried everything off, next gotta take the opti off and clean that as well, but it's running a hell of a lot better! once in a while, it'll stumble at a light, but for the most part it's fine.
oh and no, it never threw a light...only the first time
yes, the 95 has a longer pin on the cam...no, the engine position isn't important, since the opti can only line up one way
damn opti. i want coilpacks.
anybody have 700 bux to loan me?1998 TA M6 SLP Lid, Cold Air and Bellow, Flowmaster 3", Centerforce DF, Fast Toys MAF ends, JET skip shift eliminator 312rwhp/366rwtq
92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC For Sale
Visit Central Jersey Mustangs & Fords
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