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Front spindle removal.....

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  • Front spindle removal.....

    Hello, I am going to be doing the LS1 brake conversion.
    I am looking for tips on removing the front spindles by those who have done it. I only have 70K on the car so I dont intend to replace the tie-rods or ball-joints.
    Will I need a certain puller (rather than a pickle fork) to seperate the tie-rods and ball-joints, I dont want to damage the grease seals.
    I also assume the car needs an alignment after the install.
    Thanks
    1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
    Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
    Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

  • #2
    My ball joints and tie-rods came out with a smack of the BFH on the knuckle itself at the joint area....do not hammer on the joint studs themselves!!

    I had the pickle fork ready but did not need to use it....and I did also get an alignment done after the conversion.

    enjoy!!

    What hoses are you goin with?
    95 Z28, A4, 3.23's and some other stuff....

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    • #3
      Originally posted by wrd1972
      Hello, I am going to be doing the LS1 brake conversion.
      I am looking for tips on removing the front spindles by those who have done it. I only have 70K on the car so I dont intend to replace the tie-rods or ball-joints.
      Will I need a certain puller (rather than a pickle fork) to seperate the tie-rods and ball-joints, I dont want to damage the grease seals.
      I also assume the car needs an alignment after the install.
      Thanks
      The spindles are easy to remove. They are held in by 4 bolts to the caliper bracket. I think that is what you are calling the spindle. I did the same thing because I didn't know they were separate pieces. Well you might be right the way you call it. I don't know anymore.

      Here is Rob's picture of the spindle (hub assembly) whatever
      http://shbox.com/1/front_hub.jpg

      I tried to remove 1 ball joint with a pickle fork. I beat on it for an hour. It tore the boot and never did come apart. I took a 2 prong gear puller to it and it was apart in a minute. I did all the rest with the gear puller. The only problem I had was I bought the biggest gear puller they made. It was on the verge of being too big to disconnect the upper ball joint. It did work but it took some work. My advice is don't get a big gear puller and you will be fine. It does need to be a 2 prong one too. The 3 prong slides off.

      I replaced my tie rod ends because the boot was split on both sides. They cost $11.XX at Autozone. No kidding. That's a no brainer. You're going to have to have it aligned after the swap anyway so why not.

      Here is my old thread about the conversion with a great picture.
      http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9866
      Also read the note I have in there about the brake lines being different.
      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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      • #4
        Since you're taking it apart, why screw around with the old ball joints and tie rod ends. I would replace them all.
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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