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  • #1

    TBIM

    5 more days to go.

    Car wouldn't start. License server down. Off to a good start today.

    I don't know where to start. My car turns over fine. Not slow. Battery turns it fine. OPTI and water pump replaced less than a year ago. EGR valve de-carbon-ed less than a year ago. I can hear the fuel pump running. Doesn't mean it has pressure. I tried starting it for about 10 seconds, turned the key off, turned it on until I heard the fuel pump stop, off and back on, repeated several times. Tried starting it again and nothing. Did this about 5 times then all of a sudden it fired right up. I turned it off and it fired right back up. It doesn't seam to do this during the day. Only first thing in the morning. Possible coincidence. Where should I start looking?
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"
    Tags: None
  • #2
    am thinking about...Spark!
    1.- ignition coil
    2.- ignition wire
    3.-ignition module


    good luck!

    Comment

    • #3
      Possible cold start issues, after sitting overnight:

      -Fuel pressure leakdown, due to faulty check valve in fuel pump, faulty pressure regulator, or leaking injector(s).

      -Leaking injector(s) flooding engine after shutdown. To check, when starting, put throttle to floor, not moving it around. This puts PCM in "clear flood" mode and would clear out any fuel, allowing it to start faster.

      -Faulty engine coolant temperature sensor. PCM needs actual coolant temp to set A/F ratio on startup... equivalent to the "choke" on a carb.

      -Dampness in wires, coil, ICM, etc.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

      Comment

      • #4
        I went to go to lunch and it wouldn't start. I tried putting the throttle to the floor but it didn't help. I tried the on-off-on-off-on-off-on-start and after 2 trys it started. I'm wondering if it is the fuel pump. It threw a code but I don't have my scanner here. I took the PCM fuse out for 30 seconds, re-fired it and it didn't turn on the SES light. It did this the other day and it was a code 16. I don't have my book and I don't remember what this was. I turned it off and recranked it several times without a problem.

        I hope it cranks when I go to leave.
        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

        Comment

        • #5
          It won't start now. It doesn't even sound like it is going to start. I'm thinking spark too but I don't have my meter here.

          You can say what you want about Fords but in the 17 years I owned my Mustang GT I never had to have it towed. It never left me stranded. In the 2 years I have owned the Camaro, it has left me stranded once and had to be towed and it looks like it is going to do it again. When the EGR valve was clogged, it almost left me stranded but it finally started.
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

          Comment

          • #6
            DTC 16 is loss of low resolution pulse from the OptiSpark. If this is an active code - PCM can not find pulse pattern for two crank revolutions - it shuts down the fuel pump and injectors. Will not run.

            Not unusual to see this as a "stored" code, on an engine that it still running. If you clear it, and it comes back while the engine is not starting, you have just lost the Opti......
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

            Comment

            • #7
              dealership is telling me it doesn't have any spark. They are saying it is a "distributor module". Never heard of it. Is it this? http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/coil_loc.jpg
              2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

              1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

              A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

              Comment

              • #8
                The GM stuff gets a little confusing, because what was an "ignition module" on a 3rd Gen HEI ignition isn't quite the same as the ICM on a 4th Gen LT1, but they use the terms interchangeably. I would say then probably mean the ICM. Make sure though, because they might just call the Opti the "module".
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                Comment

                • #9
                  Put a fuel pressure gage on it, and see how much pressure you have. Mine was sitting around 19psi off and 27psi running when I replaced it...it should be 38-40psi, I think...don't have book in front of me. It was running like ****, and wouldn't start worth a darn. It is always a good test to run, and the car feels like it is having a multitude of ignition problems and missing when you don't have enough fuel pressure.. If you don't have a gage, get one. They are cheap, and it takes five minutes to run a test. I run a test on my cars regularly just to see where I am at.
                  '77 K5 rock-crawler project
                  '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
                  '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
                  '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
                  '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
                  My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

                  I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
                  Thomas Jefferson

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    I don't have the car. It's at the dealership. He said it has no spark. He said fuel pressure was OK. I wasn't there to watch. He said that he was not getting spark out of the coil so the problem is before the OPTI (not to say that it isn't bad but it was replaced about a year ago). I don't know how he determined that it wasn't the coil.

                    BTW if GM does a repair, it is warranted for as long as I own the car. That means if the OPTI crap does or the water pump, or now this ignition module does, the repair is paid for. I wonder if that included labor. I doubt it.
                    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Maybe the crank position sensor? I could see the opti causing the no spark condition, the coil going bad, a bad coil wire or possibly the crank position sensor not giving an accurate reading. The "ignition module" thing has me confused though. I'm not sure what that is on a 95.
                      69 Z28 with JL8 factory 4 wheel disc brakes, crossram, transistor ignition, radio delete, heater delete - being restored
                      70 SS 396 L78 documented, #'s matching
                      2000 SS Camaro daily beater

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Update.

                        They got the car running. They replaced the "distributor module", coil and the wire from the coil to the opti and it is running. I did look at the wire where it plugs in to the coil before it went in and it was not corrodied. Anyway it is running.
                        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Further update.

                          I get almost home and it dies. I put the scanner on it and it gives a code 36 which is baro low. I cleared the code. Re-crancked it. It ran for about 5 seconds, then the ses light came on, about 5 seconds after that it went nuts, revved up to about 2000 rpms then died. Distinct smell of gas in the air. MAP sensor bad?
                          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            I replaced the MAP sensor. Now it cranks, runs for a few seconds-minutes, SES light comes on (code 16), then shuts off. Sounds like Fred might be right. Could it be a bad connection? OPTI was replaced about a year ago by dealership. Sound like I get to test their warrantee.
                            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              The opti connectors where the wires go in the top on the passenger side are famous for corrosion that can cause these type problems.

                              Comment

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