Car won't start, symptoms inside, help!!

[Axolot2]

Car battery holds a charge, when the key is turned, all juice goes out of battery and car won't even turn over. Car won't take a jump. Everytime I open the door there's this clicking noise coming from the glove compartment area of the engine bay. Battery is only 2 weeks old.... any ideas??


After paying 1800$ a month ago for a replacment tranny and 800$ 2 weeks ago for resealing the rear-end, the car goes and does this. 101K miles on the ole' 99Z and this is my only problem with it thus far, can't complain too much I guess....


Thanks for any help at all!

[Christopherrr]

are all your lights on? turn the ignition, but engine won't turn...is your security light on? Don't think it's the battery...starter possibly? clicking noise from passenger side engine bay...PCM (really doubt it)? Check and make sure your connections are secure on the battery terminals, I notice a clicking when a good connection isn't made (but that's from the headlight motors, don't this it applies to you, but wouldn't hurt to check). More details please...

[DeWynter]

Sounds like a shorted battery, probably a factory defect. So are you saying that the Batt. goes dead as soon as you try to start it, then you have to charge it again? If the relays are clicking that means there isnt enough voltage from the batt. to fully engage them. the other thing to check is positive and ground cables to make sure they are making full contact to the batt.

[fastTa]

First thing to do is get a scanner on it. Have you verified the voltage at the start side of the solenoid terminal? Have you verified the voltage on both "hot" wires at the starter? Have you performed a load test on the battery after it won't turn over?

Dumb question, but have you checked all the fuses? Your VATS security system is controlled by the body control module (BCM) and could be as simple as a fuse and not allowing the VATS to function properly. The gauge cluster fuse also provides fused power to the BCM.

If you get a P1626 or P1631 code it is a problem with the VATS or the BCM not receiving good voltage. It could also be a loose wire in the steering column leading to the PASSkey II module that reads your key's resistor pellet. The P1626 code usually means the fuel enable signal is not being transmitted and not allowing your fuel pump relay to switch. This is probably not your problem though considering it won't even turn over at this point. Pray it is not a P0601-P0606 code. Those are signs of PCM failure.

There are several ways to "disable" or satisfy the signal that the PCM looks for from the module that reads the resistance of your resistor pellet in your key. Basically the PCM looks for a 50 HZ square wave at a 50% duty cycle pulsed ground signal. Sounds complicated but it can be simply disabled by measuring the resistance across the pellet using a meter, and then installing a resistor from radio shack that equals that of the one in your key.

Good luck.

[97LT1Z28]

Battery. Plain and simple. When you expose a battery to southern heat, they fry-out exactly like that. They have 12 Volts sitting, but when you put a load on them, the voltage drops so low, everything loses power. When you let off the ignition key, the voltage rises back to 12 Volts and everything seems normal. That's a typical heat-fried battery you get in southern climates. Could have bought a battery that's sat on the shelf for a while or improperly stored . . . . As they say in China . . . . .Good Ruck.

[Joe 1320]

Car battery holds a charge, when the key is turned, all juice goes out of battery and car won't even turn over. Car won't take a jump. Everytime I open the door there's this clicking noise coming from the glove compartment area of the engine bay. Battery is only 2 weeks old.... any ideas??

!

Take the battery out and have it load tested at the local auto parts store. A bad cell or shorted cell may still show 12 volts but won't deliver the amps needed to turn the car. It is not uncommon for a new battery to fry. Not only that, they appear to take and hold a charge, jump starting probably won't work and the electrical system does nutty things. Sound pretty familiar? Have it load tested.......you'll most likely walk out with a new battery.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Agree with Joe. You can put 4 calculator batteries together and get 12 volts, but it doesn't mean that it can make any current. The minimum voltage that should be on a battery is 12.6 (2.1 volts per cell) anything below that means that the battery is discharged. Get it load tested before you do anything else.

[Axolot2]

Just taking it to the store I bought the battery, hopefully it's a defect.....

very bad vacation.

Thanks for the help guys!