I am working on my header install, and I have one manifold bolt left to take off on the passenger side. How do I get a socket on that front bolt? This is the bolt with the alternator bracket on it. There is a power steering (I think?) line in the way. If I disconnect the rubber section of this line from the metal portion, do I need to do something to bleed air out after I put it back together? Or is there a better way to get access to that manifold bolt?
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Specialty tools are something that I collect from time to time. They help dramatically at with some jobs. Everything from ratcheting box end wrenches to what's called a crowfoot..... an offset crescent end but for use with a ratchet. Extensions of various sizes from 1" up to 6", universal joints, etc. At worst, you could remove the power steering pump but not disconnect the hoses.
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I think he's talking about the coolant line in the way. The metal part bolts down about midway of the manifold and you just need to lift it off the stud and push it aside. You should be able to get to that last bolt with a socket on a u-joint if I remember correctly. Only did it 4 times in the last 10 years...Comment
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Ahh... I see, said the blind man. Kevin's right, unbolt it and move it aside.Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TAComment
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No, I screwed up - I was thinking of the intake manifold - sorry - ! I can't remember about the exhaust manifold bolt on that side, except that I didn't have any problem with that. What I can tell you, is that most of us do not use that alternator bracket down below. It is "extra support" that is not really needed. Sorry if I misled you.Comment
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Its an a/c line thats in the way, just evap the system and get rid of all the hozes. You dont realy need it.-Nick-
95 A4 Z28Comment
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Spoken from someone living way up north. LOL Not in "hot lanta".Originally posted by 95z282002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"Comment
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its what i had to do to get mine, i evaped the system disconnected the hose til i got the header in. now its sorta pluged back on so i can still use it but i never do. (pix and vids of the header install to come)_-Nick-
95 A4 Z28Comment
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I used a regular 9/16 wrench. Put the 12 point side on it, and turned it little by little. I mean very little. I thought it would take forever to get off. I actually didn't have a hard time getting any of the bolts off. All are easily accessible from the top or bottom.97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM
01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines
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Thanks for the responses. I will be back at it tonight. I don't plan to ditch the A/C, and I don't think I can see or access that front bolt from under that side of the car. I had a heck of a time last night just trying to get a socket to that bolt. It is good to know that I will be fine without putting that alternator bracket back on when the headers go on.
This is really a slow process, since I have only had about an hour every other night to work on the car.Comment
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