I've got some spiderwebbing and parallel line scratches that go beyond what Z5 can correct. Anybody got any options on what might work to take them out?
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Originally posted by TigI've got some spiderwebbing and parallel line scratches that go beyond what Z5 can correct. Anybody got any options on what might work to take them out?
Seriously.. . Body panels are very easy to remove from these cars and can be painted individually for reasonable costs. Some colors are harder to match than others, but the computerized systems they have today along with an experienced painter can do wonders. Just remove the offensive part from the car, strip it yourself and then take it in for paint. Assuming all the stripping and any required repairs to the panel are completed by you, it should not cost more than 2-300 dollars to repaint a panel.
Spiderwebbing is not repairable. The paint itself is shattered. If you attempt to paint over it the new paint will quickly show the same spiderwebs. It needs to be stripped first to remove the problem.
I firmly believe in having the front bumper cover on my car stripped and repainted every couple years. (it is due for it now) It keeps the car looking fresh, and is easier than trying to deal with an ugly bra.Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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Originally posted by Performin Norman1200 to 1500 wet sand. Buff with a wool pad on a rotary buffer using mild abbrasives. Then follow up with a foam pad and polishing compound.
That is a good technique on scratches, just not spiderwebbing. It will be able to help with some of his marks.Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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Originally posted by Performin Norman1200 to 1500 wet sand. Buff with a wool pad on a rotary buffer using mild abbrasives. Then follow up with a foam pad and polishing compound.'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
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Worst part is, some of the scratches are these nice parallel lines. Turns out that when I lent the car to a friend during the winter they took it to one of the power wash places. The car had a nice ice buildup, and they took it off by using the BRUSH. I don't know if I'll ever get those scratches out. *sigh* They go across the side of the car, down the hood, and across the back. I don't lend my car to anyone anymore.'99 T/A WS6 w/ Borla cat-back, K&N, SLP SFC, SLP STB, BMR boxed LCA's, BMR Adj. torque arm, BMR panhard rod, BMR springs, and Short Stick
(a list I know, but if I don't put it here, I'll never write it down anywhere else)
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Originally posted by TigWorst part is, some of the scratches are these nice parallel lines. Turns out that when I lent the car to a friend during the winter they took it to one of the power wash places. The car had a nice ice buildup, and they took it off by using the BRUSH. I don't know if I'll ever get those scratches out. *sigh* They go across the side of the car, down the hood, and across the back. I don't lend my car to anyone anymore.'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
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spiderwebbing (cracked paint) is not easy to doctor. It's best to strip it and repaint. Now for scratches...... don't do anything just yet. Sal is coming out with a paint cleanser that will take out the scratches. Then hit it with the rest of the Zaino products and it should look stellar. I've done this before without Sal's product by using a water based aluminum oxide sanding gel. There are various grades depending on how aggressive you want it to be.
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I'm looking forward to the paint cleanser, and then I can see how bad the spiderwebbing is. The web seems to be only on one side of the front bumper. I need some other Zaino stuff anyway; do we know when the cleanser is going on sale?'99 T/A WS6 w/ Borla cat-back, K&N, SLP SFC, SLP STB, BMR boxed LCA's, BMR Adj. torque arm, BMR panhard rod, BMR springs, and Short Stick
(a list I know, but if I don't put it here, I'll never write it down anywhere else)
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For now you can you Meguiar's polish. They have a lot of different grades of polishing compound. I have a write up on it at home I can go into more detail but I mostly use a wool bonnet for their heavy compounds and a faom pad for their lighter smoother compounds.
http://www.meguiars.com/
LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-BP, GMPP 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, Adj. tierod, BMR tower brace, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 GY F1 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam
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Originally posted by TigI'm looking forward to the paint cleanser, and then I can see how bad the spiderwebbing is. The web seems to be only on one side of the front bumper. I need some other Zaino stuff anyway; do we know when the cleanser is going on sale?2000 Camaro SS..........6 speed triple black
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OK here is what I'm doing with some pretty awesome results!
Wash by hand thoroughly with dish washing soap.
Use Clay bar kneading after rubbing a section at a time.
Wash thoroughly to remove clay residue and soap.
If the swirls are real bad start with Meguiar’s #7 ‘medium cut polish’ with a wool bonnet. Be careful with this stuff its like rubbing compond. When in doubt skip to the next step.
Apply as many layers as need to get uniform finish. Clean polish residue thoroughly using a 100% cotton cloth to wipe away hazed polish.
If the paint is not so swirled start with this.
Change wool bonnet and go to Meguiar’s #5 ‘Fine cut cleaner’
Apply as many layers as need to get uniform finish.
Clean polish residue thoroughly using a clean 100% cotton cloth to wipe away hazed polish.
Change wool bonnet and go to Meguiar’s #3 ‘Swirl remover’
Apply as many layers as need to get uniform finish.
Clean polish residue thoroughly using a clean 100% cotton cloth to wipe away hazed polish.
Change to a foam pad and go to Meguiar’s #1 ‘Machine glaze’
Apply as many layers as need to get uniform finish.
Clean polish residue thoroughly using a clean 100% cotton cloth to wipe away hazed polish.
Apply Zaino Z-1. Let haze.
Apply Zaino Z-5 or Z-1 Let haze.
Use a 100% cotton cloth to wipe away hazed polish.
Layer for desired effect.
Spray Z-6 or Z-8 to seal polish for effect.
LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-BP, GMPP 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, Adj. tierod, BMR tower brace, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 GY F1 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam
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