Valvetrain noise - do you have it?

[89TTA/95 TA Vert]

Hey guys,

Here is the deal. I have a 1995 convertible T/A LT-1 w/ 52k miles. The car runs great no apparent problems; however, the upper end of the motor (more than likely the rocker arms) make a clickity clack sound when the rpm's go up (not at idle) and mainly when cruising. The motor is not starving for oil and it isn't real loud. Is this common amongst LT-1 motors? Being that it has hydraulic lifters the rocker arms should never need adjusting but what would you guys recommend?

I'm not worried at all about this, I would like to try and quiet it up some if possible. I even thought about maybe adding some stamped steel roller tipped rockers and push rods if I had to pull the valve covers off. Does the motor come w/ roller tipped rockers? If I went with a needle bearing forged aluminum set I probably would need screw in studs and the heads may need clearancing. I don't want to get into any major work either so I'm nixing that idea.

Please let me know your expirience or thoughts with my issue, dilemma etc... Again, it is not terribly loud I'm just particular about my stuff and I like everything to be as close to perfect (if that is possible) as it can be.

Thanks in advance for your time.

[Rob B (shoebox)]

I don't know about roller tipped rockers (which are not stock), but full roller rockers will be even noisier in most cases. The aluminum head LT1s come stock with screw-in studs and there are no clearance issues on the head (there is with the valve cover on some roller rockers like the Comp Pro Magnums).

[94 formula]

An exhaust leak at the manifold will cause a type of ticking noise that increases with rpms. You may want to also look at that as the source of the noise.

[fastTa]

Yes stock lifters are simply a stamped steel, non-roller rocker arm. Like mentioned, upgrading to a full roller rocker or even a roller tipped rocker arm will ususally be noisier than stock.

LT1 heads utilize a screw in rocker arm stud from the factory, but you could always go with a larger 7/16" stud for increased strength.

Usually with a non self aligning 1.6 aftermarket rocker arm (especially Comp Pro Magnums), you sometimes just need to slightly bend the drip rails inside the LT1 valve cover.