Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Codes and O2

Collapse
X
Collapse
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous Next
  • #1

    Codes and O2

    P134 and P135 ... are these codes and if so would anyone know what they are? I got the car back last night and they told me they changed out a fuse and on the invoice the P134 and P135 is shown on it. They cleared the codes and the check engine light was out. The car was much more responsive to the throttle. Being all happy to get her back I was blipping the throttle to see how quick she moved and responded and sure enough the engine light came back on.

    the invoice mentioned the following:
    Initiall diagnostic PO134 F PO135 replace 1 damage fuse supply to power to MAF sensor low activity on sensor reset and test drive sensor slow but codes did not set a code.

    I don't want to think its the Granatelli MAF and thinking maybe its the O2 sensors (one or both)
    97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
    In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    http://www.nology.com/OBD2FaultCodes.htm
    P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    It looks like it is a problem with the O2. Check the connecter for corrosion or make sure the wire isn't burned on the exhaust or something silly first.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

    Comment

    • #3
      thanks Jeff ...
      Do you think given my car has 110k miles that I should change them anyway?
      97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
      In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

      Comment

      • #4
        Originally posted by soCalTA
        thanks Jeff ...
        Do you think given my car has 110k miles that I should change them anyway?
        I believe the service manual says to change them at 100k miles. I've seen them go for many more and may less miles. They seam to work or they don't. One day I'm going to cut one apart. Personally I'd replace it. It's not that expensive and messing around with it costs more in the long run.
        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

        Comment

        • #5
          Ok .. I will replace them both and see if the light goes off itself. I am sure my mechanic will suggest that so at least I can have some fun working on her and save a little money.
          97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
          In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by soCalTA
            Ok .. I will replace them both and see if the light goes off itself. I am sure my mechanic will suggest that so at least I can have some fun working on her and save a little money.
            I Think you have 4 of them. 2 Pre cats and 2 post cats. I believe the sensor 1 means the pre cat or the one between the motor and the cat.
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

            Comment

            • #7
              hmmm .... glad you told me that ... so then I will just start replacing the two "pre cat" sensors and go from there.
              97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
              In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

              Comment

              • #8
                You should as a minimum, replace the drivers side pre-cat sensor. Check the harness as well, as instructed above. One way to check whether its a sensor or a wire, is to swap the two pre-cat sensors side-to-side. If the problem moves to Bank 2, its the sensor. If it stays on bank 1 its the wiring.

                It seems to be a good idea to use ONLY the OEM AC/Delco sensors. The dealer will rip you off, but you can get them for about 1/2 of list, plus shipping from the online GM parts sources like Jason Cromer or Dal Slabaugh - check Shoebox's Tech Pages for "where to buy GM parts".

                For the miles on the car, I would replace both pre-cat sensors.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                Comment

                • #9
                  I don't have the ability to check the codes should I make the switch side to side. I wish I did.... I guess I can just replace one at a time starting from the drivers side pre-cat and see what happens. Either that or take it back to my mechanic and let him mess with it some more.

                  By the way what scan tools are you guys using to check what the codes are?
                  97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
                  In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    You can get an OBD-II code scanner for as little as $40. Harbor Freight has one for that price. One of the guys on CZ28.com tried it and it worked fine.
                    Fred

                    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Man as many tools as I have purchased from them I had no idear ...... Will go there this weekend and get one and then try out the suggestions ..

                      thanks guys
                      97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
                      In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

                      Comment

                      Previous Next
                      Working...
                      X