Why are WS6's so much more expensive than SS's?

[AndyLT1]

I'm glad I didn't pay those prices for my Formula. Sticker on it was $17,000. Of course there's no A/C, hardtop, roll up windows, no cruise, the only power option is controlled by my right foot.

Andy

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

That would make a good race car, Andy. Did you ever weigh it to see how many pounds the total comfort delete saved ya? Just curious, cause I think the sticker on my car was $25k and so at $17k that leaves $8k of options that has gotta weigh a few hundred pounds or so . BTW, my car weighs 3560 with a lot of added weight from the blower, bigger wheels/tires, SFCs, 12 bolt, bigger brakes, and other junk.

[AndyLT1]

Before I did all the mods in my sig. I weighed it. It was 3280 with 1/2 a tank of gas. People used to wonder why I'd be consistently .15 to .20 faster in the 1/4 than the other LT1 F-bods. It was cool surprising them.

Andy

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Looks like your mods might balance out and she might weigh pretty close to that weight after all you did. Add some for the heavier rear suspension stuff, subtract for the headers and k-member and it might be a wash. Yeah, it takes a bit of hp to make up for 200-300 pounds and .2s, all right. It probably handles nice, too, huh?

[AndyLT1]

I've never driven another 4th gen. to compare it to, but I think it handles nice. I was planning on taking it to the track today, but something rattling under the right valve cover stopped that. It's one of the spring retainer locks. Don't ask me how the heckk that came out, but I can't out it back without an air compressor and a vlave spring tool. I guess I'm screwed.

Andy

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by AndyLT1
I can't out it back without an air compressor and a vlave spring tool. I guess I'm screwed.

Wrong...... you will need a valve spring compressor, but you don't need an air compressor. Rotate the engine by hand so that the affected cylinder is at the top dead center with both valves closed. Remove the spark plug and thread 1/4 rope into the cylinder. You should be able to stuff 8-12" worth in there, leaving enough outside to be able to grab hold to be able to pull it out when done. The rope will prevent the valve from dropping when you compress the spring and replace the retainer.

[AndyLT1]

Thanks Joe. I'll have to try that. Or, what about using a magnet to hold the valve? That's what I was just about to do. I just bought a valve spring compressor and I have a friend on his way to lend another pair of hands. We'll see how it goes.

Andy

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by AndyLT1
what about using a magnet to hold the valve? Andy

Hmm.... never tried that, I'm not sure I would chance it. With the rope, you have a positive stop. With the magnet, if you accidently push the valve, it drops.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

On our cars, you don't need the rope. They are high compression and have a tight squish area. The valve drops a little but not that much - you just have to make sure that the piston is at TDC. I did all my springs that way. The hard part was of my compressors was really designed up for the job, so I made my own - but now I see that Proform has made a nice adjustable unit that works off the studs like my homemade one did.

[AndyLT1]

Well, I got the car back together and took it for a ride last night. After babying it until it warmed up, I took it up to 6500 rpm. It started clattering again. I haven't pulled the cover off yet, but it's coming from the same side as the previous time. I did all the work myself with a couple of friends helping out except the heads. I had an engine shop do the new springs, some port matching and a 3 angle valve job. My new question is this, if they lost one of the 32 new locks and put one old one in? I just decided to count the old locks (I asked for all the old parts back when they did the work) There are only 31. I'm wondering if they lost one and used one of the old ones and if for some stupid reason that could be making it jump out. What do you think?

Andy

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

It depends on the retainers & locks. There are 10° and 7°. If they are the same, it shouldn't matter if one of the old ones was used - still I doubt that was what happenned. They probably just lost one of the old ones. If it keeps popping out, I would inspect the valve to make sure the notch isn't chipped. If assembled properly, they should never come out. You can smack the valve a couple times with a mallett to seat it if it is questionable. Good luck with it Andy. Wish I could help you more, but I live up here in Wisconsin.

[AndyLT1]

Thanks for the reply Kevin. But, I was wrong. I tried to blame someone else but it didn't work. I just pulled the left cover. The lock is still in place. The #1 exhaust rocker nut was loose. The pushrod for #1 intake is bent. I don't know why it got bent as the other pushrod was still in place. I still have my old pushrods. Nothing wrong with them, I just decided to get new hardened ones. I recently read somewhere, maybe on this board, that early LT1's had hardened pushrods from the factory. Can I use my old one?

Andy

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Not sure about which were hardened, but you should be OK to use it in a pinch until you can get a new one. Kind of depends on how heavy the springs are and how high you are going to rev it. Non-hardened rods are a no-no with a guide plate type setup, so I wouldn't take a chance there if you are using guide plates. Even if the stock ones are hardened, they probably aren't as stiff as a good aftermarket rod which is intended for heavy valve springs.