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Torque Converter ? and some Good News

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  • Torque Converter ? and some Good News

    I was thinking of putting a higher stall converter (around 1700 - 2000) to give a better launch but still save some gas, my question is simply that when I put the converter on, does that mean the car won't operate below that RPM level while in motion, I got some great info from you guys already, but was a little foggy on that part. And how much would installation run? What about on a new Y-Pipe adn headers?

    Now for the good news!!!!
    After long hours of debating I think I've finally convinced my parents to let me keep the T/A while i'm in college! Still working out the details, but man am I excited!!!
    -Dan

    1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

    Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.


  • #2
    The stall speed is simply the RPM that the torque convertor makes it maximum torque multiplication. This is the RPM that you would "footbrake" to when you are on the starting line at the track. The TPI motors dont need a lot of stall because they make their power down low in the RPM range. 1700 isnt much above stock though. I would go with a 2200 RPM convertor assuming your car is stock. Yes, the car will still drive below 2200 rpm.....

    Install should run you in the 500 ballpark.
    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

    Comment


    • #3
      Think of a converter as a fluid coupling or "clutch". Even with a 2000 stall, you are just going to notice a small difference in what RPM range the converter actually starts to engage the drivetrain. It is not like an on/off type thing where the converter does not engage at all until the stall speed is reached. Rather, it is much like slowly letting out the clutch on a standard transmission car.

      Remember that just because a converter is being advertised as a certain stall speed, it will all depend on the amount of torque you are making and how. The more torque you are making the easier it is for the car to overcome the converter and thus reach the stall speed. Let's say a converter is advertised as having a 2400 stall speed and it was tested using a 450 lb/ft torque load. Well if you put that converter in a car making only 350 lb/ft of torque, it will not stall at 2400 but much lower.

      Here is some good reading.

      http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter1.htm

      http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/tor..._explained.htm

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      • #4
        I think I understand how it works now, thanks guys.
        -Dan

        1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

        Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by fastTA
          Remember that just because a converter is being advertised as a certain stall speed, it will all depend on the amount of torque you are making and how. The more torque you are making the easier it is for the car to overcome the converter and thus reach the stall speed. Let's say a converter is advertised as having a 2400 stall speed and it was tested using a 450 lb/ft torque load. Well if you put that converter in a car making only 350 lb/ft of torque, it will not stall at 2400 but much lower.

          YES! This is what many guys dont realize. They buy an "off the shelf" vigilante or a yank and pay gobs of money for it, but the advertised stall is not what the actual stall is in the car. Ive always had custom convertors built by the company that builds all the convertors for my dads tranny shop. A good custom convertor builder will take into account all the vehicle specs like weight, engine size, power band, etc....
          96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
          11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

          Comment


          • #6
            man you guys really know everything there is to know about these cars, doe anyone have an estimate though as to how much it would be to get new headers and a y-pipe installed?
            -Dan

            1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

            Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

            Comment

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