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  • #1

    SES light

    My ses light lit on the way into work this morning. It's been awhile, but arent there a couple pins in the ALDL i can short to make the light flash the code? The car is a 94 Z. Also where is the ignition switch supposed to be set when doing this? I took the screen out of the MAF a couple weeks ago... I hope it's not that. I also pulled the intake to fix the oil leak last week, but it has been fine since then up until today.

    I'll get this dang car strait sooner or later.

    Tracy
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  • #2
    You can not flash the codes on the ALDL connector. The last year that was possible was 1993. For 1994 and newer, you need a scanner, and it can't be one of the $30 cheapies that does nothing more than short the pins. You need something like a ScanMaster or AutoXray scanner, or laptop software like FreeScan or TTS DataMaster.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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    • #3
      Or you can go to autotrak or a similar store and have them pull the code for free.
      Joe K.
      '11 BMW 328i
      '10 Matrix S AWD
      Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP

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      • #4
        I don't know about Autotrak, never heard of that in the south, but AutoZone will only do a 96 and up OBDII car.
        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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        • #5
          Yeah...Autozone...that's what I meant.
          Joe K.
          '11 BMW 328i
          '10 Matrix S AWD
          Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP

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          • #6
            rip-off

            Thorstad Chevrolet in Madison Wi wants $45.00 just to plug in their scantool and read the codes to me. WHAT A RIP! (how much does that come to per hour?) A coworker of mine overheard me on the telephone and said her husband has those scan tools... She's going to see it he has the correct one for my car and if so loan it to me.

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            • #7
              it was a fuse for the air pump. apparently there is a bulliten on this to replace the wire with a heavier guage and trade the 20W fuse for a 25.

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              • #8
                Yes there is a recall on the air pump. My car had almost 100,000 miles on it when I took it in. They replaced the pump and the harness to it (I think) under warrantee. Don't put a larger fuse in it. It will melt the insulation on the wiring harness.
                2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                Comment

                • #9
                  Re: rip-off

                  Originally posted by tabahr
                  Thorstad Chevrolet in Madison Wi wants $45.00 just to plug in their scantool and read the codes to me. WHAT A RIP! (how much does that come to per hour?) .
                  I work as a tech during the summers to make some extra $. This very comment bothers me sometimes. If a customer wants you to plug in the scanner to read codes, there IS a charge. Its not so much a time issue, its the fact that the scanner costs $4000.00! If they were cheap, everyone would have one, and then we wouldn't charge so much.

                  The other one I got the other day - "You want 75 bucks to fix a broken wire?" "Thats ridiculous!" Well... yes it took me two hours to track it down. If you knew what the problem was, I would have only charged you five bucks to solder the wire.

                  Im sorry im ranting and raving....so many people think they are getting ripped off by the auto industry. Sometimes its true, but not all the time.
                  96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                  11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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                  • #10
                    A couple months ago my wifes' Blazer had the SES light come on. It was a loose gas cap. No charge for the system scan(same dealer). Why would a blown fuse be any different? I paid $80.00 for a fuse and an extra ignition key. I DO feel ripped off.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by tabahr
                      A couple months ago my wifes' Blazer had the SES light come on. It was a loose gas cap. No charge for the system scan(same dealer). Why would a blown fuse be any different? I paid $80.00 for a fuse and an extra ignition key. I DO feel ripped off.
                      This type of scenerio should be a motivator for you to at the very least, pick up a Haynes manual from your local auto parts store. Start reading, along the way pick up some basic diagnostic tools like a digital volt meter, spark testor, noid light and an inexpesive scanner. Inexpensive code reader/scanners can be had for under $400. Some are under $200. Look at it this way, 2 trips to the dealer and the stuff would already be paid for, you own the equipment and can fix it yourself all the while gaining knowledge and a feeling of accomplishment. You have to start somewhere.....

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                      • #12
                        Joe is right. If you dont want to pay, fix it yourself. You didnt pay 80 bucks for a fuse, you paid 80 bucks for someone (with knowledge and the right equipment) to tell you it was the fuse.

                        Im not saying people never get ripped off - its a shame and very detrimental to the business.

                        Im currently an "expert witness" for a friend who is suing a shop. She brought her car in for an oil change and left with a broken transfer case. On the Jeep NP 247 transfer case, there is a detent ball and spring which is responsible for holding the tension on the rooster tail cam, which activates the shift fork when shifting into 4 low. Anyways, this detent spring is held in by a plug in the bottom of the transfer case and yup ..... they pulled the plug out and did some serious damage. They refuse to pay for it. Now, she got ripped.
                        96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                        11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
                          Joe is right. If you dont want to pay, fix it yourself. You didnt pay 80 bucks for a fuse, you paid 80 bucks for someone (with knowledge and the right equipment) to tell you it was the fuse.

                          you hit the nail on the head.

                          Or at the very least, diagnose the problem yourself..... then decide if you want to fix it or not. If not, you can take it somewhere and say "replace this part". Remember, you are paying hourly for the diagnostic and also for the repair. I figured out a long time ago, that the cost of a shop to repair your car will be roughly the same amount as the parts plus the cost of the specialty tools and supplies. After awhile, for what you would have spent at the repair shop, you'll own all the tools and have the knowledge to boot. That is how I started 25 years ago and now I have 3 large rolling cabinets full of most every tool I need from a full set of air tools and compressor, to A/C service tools, scanner, pullers, specialty wrenches not to mention the standard stuff. I still want a lift like Performin' Norman has.

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                          • #14
                            Yes there are good and bad guys in the auto industry like you guys said.

                            If I have a problem with my cars or any other equipment in the house I usually search on the net or in the manuals to see what could be wrong and if I can fix it myself if possible.

                            A couple of times I found the answer on a forum like this.

                            Other times I couldn't so I called an expert or brought the car in. Sure sometimes it was something simple and I hated to pay for it.

                            They are a service industry and want to make money. The people that work there would like to get paid. They probably would get a warm and fuzzy feeling if they could do the work for free for you. But as you may know, the grocery store doesn't accept that warm & fuzzy feeling as a payment.

                            This experience might be an incentive to learn something about your cars. Even if you can't fix it yourself. Just so you can diagnost the problem and know that you are not going to be ripped off by some black sheeps in the business.
                            97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


                            1and1 Web Hosting

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                            • #15
                              It's not that I lack know-how. I just pulled the intake and fixed the oil leak at the back of the manifold. I do not, however own a scan tool. I will always check all the fuses first now before taking it in for scanning. I guess that is why I feel burned. I could had fixed it if I had been more thorough. A scantool is twards the bottom of the shopping list. Next purchase will most likely be a new throwout bearing.

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