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looking at buying a no-start car

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  • looking at buying a no-start car

    I'm looking for something to replace my quickly dying S10 Blazer (trans is going south at a rapid rate), and I came across a 91 Canadian Firebird at a local dealer. Has 121,000KM (about 75,000 miles), upsides is thats its super cheap-guy is asking $600, I'm sure I can get it for $400, its in decent shape in and out. Down side is that its a hardtop, auto trans, and 3.1L engine that doesn't start. Has good voltage on the gauge, but when you turn the key to start, the temp gauge pegs high and the brake light comes on. I didn't dig too deep into the car for fear that I would acidentally get the car to start thereby raise the asking price by a thousand, lol. It appears to have an alarm installed, and I'm wondering if it might have a starter interrupt installed as well. The part that worries me tho is the temp gauge pegging high. Is this a car that I should run from, or is it a potentially easy fix? I'm quite mechanically inclined, if I know whats wrong I can fix it, I'm just not terribly great at electrical diagnosis. I'm also not against pulling any parts off the 2.8L in my truck if need be.

  • #2
    Assuming you are saying the starter does not engage... It cannot be that hard to fix. Does the solenoid click? I'd put a test light on the starter solenoid and see if it is getting power to start when the ignition is turned to "start". For $400 I'd buy it and use it for target practice in a gravel pit if I couldn't get it fired up. LOL

    Any way you look at it, you can't lose.

    Tracy

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    • #3
      didn't sound like the starter was getting power at all. I noticed that it didn't seem like the lights or dash dimmed at all (indicating a bad starter, solenoid, short to ground etc). The two big points that I did notice was the temp gauge pegging high (hot) when the key was turned to start, but pegged low on run, and then the brake light coming on when turned to start, off when in run position.

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      • #4
        I wouldn't pay any attention to what the guages are doing unless the car is running. Sounds like an easy fix. Generally a no-crank situation is an easy fix. Could be starter, ignition switch, fusible link, neutral safety switch. Its just a matter of tracing around with a test light to see where you have power. Start at the starter and work your way back if theres no power there - fusible links, neutral safety, etc etc.... Get a wiring diagram if it get too complicated.


        Once you get it cranking - then hopefully it runs good - if not, you've only paid 400. So you've got cash to sort through it.

        Good luck
        96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
        11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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        • #5
          I had a 86 and 87 and if I remember correctly the temp guages on those peged while starting. I cant remember if my 88 did it. The 88 was a 5.7 TPI car while the 86 and 87 were 5.0 4bbl. The brake light problem sounds like a real mystery. I'd try a testlight at the pedalswitch. I still say for $400 you cant go wrong... It's practically free.

          Tracy

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          • #6
            hmmm...on the issue of sorting thru it-knowing that the 3.1L engine is merely a stroked 2.8L, how many of the parts from my 87 S10 Blazer with 2.8 and TH700 would I be able to use on the Bird? I know I can't use the trans, since the truck is 4WD, and the throttle body with intake, since its a TBI truck, but everything else from the heads down should be a bolt on, right? I assume body and engine wire harness would be different, but what about ECU?

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            • #7
              ECU would be different also.... Port FI versus throttle body. Not really very many parts you could change around.

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              • #8
                hmm...you are all right-at $400 it would be worth it either way....that temp gauge thing is what was really holding me back...I'm gonna go there again tomorrow look at it closer, and may very well come home with a Bird thanks for all the help

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                • #9
                  asylist, I noticed in your profile your email and aol screen name. I also have a jeep and a shelby dodge. What kind of shelby do you have?
                  96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                  11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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                  • #10
                    hehe, not very many people pick up on the SHLBDGE moniker, even those among the Shelby Dodge world. Used to run an 86 Charger, oil pump failed one on the way to work trashing the engine. Sold the car, intending on buying another Charger, just never worked out that way. As for the Jeep-had an 85 XJ, victim of an offroad rollover. My dumb ass tried to turn around on a steep hill, as soon as I got 90 degrees across the hill, I went rolling down it sideways, lol. It was pretty rusted out at that point anyway, and had the anemic 2.5L four cylinder, so I opted not to keep it around. I kept both the screen names since I had been using them for so long at that point.

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                    • #11
                      Nice! Similiar to your jeep, I rolled over my 1 of 750 Shelby CSX. Except I was doing about 60 when I hit the ravine So, the body was trashed, but I had to save the original 50k mile drivetrain, so I transplanted it into a regular Omni, which weighs about 900 lbs less. It flies! Runs low 14's @ 103 mph. Its all rusty and a great sleeper. People dont realize how quick those shelbys can be.
                      96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                      11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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