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  • #1

    O2 sensor install trouble

    Well I took the advice from you guys and purchased two new O2's for the two locations forward of the two cats. Facing the car I was able to get to the one on the left. Now my big problem is how the heck does one get the right side one out? There is such a small, tight space that I have next to no room in there. Do you guys have a particular tool or procedure that you used to get at it? I ran out of time but managed to spray on some WD-40. I will try again this weekend and perhaps spray more on and maybe try and get some ice on it to maybe contract the metal. Any insight is appreciated. Oh by the way I started her up afterwards and the light came back on. Just my luck its going to be the hardest one to get at that will solve the problem.

    thanks ,..

    Jorge
    97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
    In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    First, WD-40 isn't the ticket. Get PBlaster next time, it is a better penetrant. I have an 02 socket tool called a crowfoot. It has an offset attachment for a wratchet and has the benefit of increased clearance and leverage.

    Next, when you are done the computer must be reset to ditch the codes. Pull the fuse to the PCM in the fusebox to cut battery power, reinstall after 20 seconds.

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    • #3
      2 things....

      1) I agree with joe, WD-40 does nothing, and I too have an o2 socket tool...not sure if it's the crowfoot like joe has, but it has come in handy a couple times.

      2) I need to get my 667th post already....dem triple 6's scare me
      black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

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      • #4
        Heat it up with a torch and it will screw right out.
        1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
        Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
        Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

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        • #5
          I made life easy. I went and bought 2 spark plug arrestors from Autozone, which are basically O2 bungs without the $30 price tag. Torch a hole in the pipe farther down, weld the arrestor in, screw in new O2's. Left the old ones alone because mine wouldn't budge AT ALL.
          "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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          • #6
            Yeah .. I have the crowfoot as well. Thats what I used to get the one out. Its the other bugger that is giving me grief. I will get the PB stuff and see if that will work. If not then I guess torching it will be next.
            97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
            In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

            Comment

            • #7
              Seriously, heat it up red hot with a torch, it will screw out. I tried to take the O2 out of my jeep, it was in for 120K miles and rusted big time. I rounded the head off with the special socket. I went to bum a torch and heated it and the sensor came out with vice grips with almost no effort.
              1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
              Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
              Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

              Comment

              • #8
                OK I will try that. I have the little torches that one can buy at HomeDepot and it attaches to a cylindar of propane gass. I hope it is hot enough to do the trick.
                97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
                In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Propane will not get hot enough, you will need oxy/actylene.
                  1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
                  Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
                  Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Before you guys start playing with matches, spray PBlaster on the threads and let it sit overnight. Rap on it a couple of times to get the oil to fully penetrate and the sensor will come right out. The secret is the combination of PBlaster, letting it sit overnight and a couple of sharp taps with a hammer. It makes it very easy.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      The PB stuff was always option one. The torch was my fall-back option. I have enough problems with the heat from my ceramic coated headers messing things up.
                      97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
                      In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        ok the PB stuff went on tonight ..will let it sit .. and I will hit it again tomorrow night and the try to take it off on Sunday.
                        97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
                        In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

                        Comment

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