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  • E-Brake Handle

    When I first got my car, I was cleaning it up very good. I wanted to take the console out and clean it up under there real good. I took off the E-brake handle, and the cable to the handle button came off and now my ebrake doesnt work. it is still hard to pull up, but it doesnt lock itself. and if you pull it while moving you can feel it slow you down a very small amount.

    its not that big of a deal though since it is an automatic, but its still annoying. and i havent been able to clean under the console since i dont know the trick to getting the console out. was i supposed to leave handle on engage e brake and slide it up? or is handle supposed to come off? and how do i connect it again? will i have to somehow rig it to stay up or maybe use another person to hold brake while i pull console out? i am eventually gonna get a 97- up console cuz they are better IMO...
    any other info needed just lemme know. and thanks.

    it is a 94 z28 automatic


    the reason i did this is because i have owned a few 3rd gen camaros, the ebrake handle coming off gave me no problems at all since the button is not part of the handle. i didnt know that on 4th gens the button was part of the handle.

  • #2
    You can remove the console without removing the e-brake handle.

    Console is held in by a screw that connects the front of the console to the dash, right under the tape cubby, two screws in the bottom of the console sotrage bin, and two screws under the surround for the shifter. At least that is the way my 94 Firebird M6 console is. I would suspect the screw locations are the same for all model and tranny configurations. 97 and later versions are different.

    When you get the screws out, and unplug all the wires, the console will lift over the e-brake handle in the "up" position. If you want to get the handle even straighter "up", there is a pawl in the handle that you can release to allow it to point straight up.

    Don't know the details of how the pushbutton in the handle connects.... I didn't even know it came apart.

    To avoid errors like this, its a good idea to get something like a Chilton's manual, for less than $20..... a decent reference for most maintenance work, but not $100+ like the factory manuals.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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