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  • Any thoughts?

    I just dropped my 96ss off to have my on going hesitation looked at.The mechanic said his scanner cought a misfire on 1,3,5 and #7 under a load in fifth gear while accelerating in this gear without down shifting.He looked up the gm service bulletin and it stated the normall cap and rotor problems which he really believes its not.The car only has 26,000 on it.He thinks it could be my maf sensor needing cleaning due to the k&n filter in the ram air being dry on oil and passed on some dirt.I told him i did see some dirt spots on the wire in the sensor when i was looking over it.He going to try cleaning it.Is 2+2 safe or should he be using some more aimed toward a electrical cleanind product?Just wondering your thoughts about this problem.

  • #2
    I really doubt the problem is the MAF, but you you can carefully dab it clean with some carb cleaner.

    If you think the MAF is giving you problems, try unplugging it. While unplugged the system will default to speed density. Someone correct me if I am wrong here.
    Tracy
    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
    Current Mods:
    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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    • #3
      update

      Yeah even thought it only has 26,000 on the car i thought from sitting maybe the cap has alot of moisture in it?Or got rust in the opti?

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      • #4
        Don't clean the MAF sensor with carb cleaner. That's a solvent that's way too harsh for the electronics. There are thin-film resistors in the sensor. Use an electronics cleaning spray.

        It's not likely the MAF sensor. Why would it affect only one bank of the engine? With all the cylinders on one side of the engine misfiring, there is either damage to the plug wires for that side, or the A/F ratio control is screwed up. The mechanic should scan it, looking at the long term fuel corrections for both banks, and compare them. If the long term corrections are "split", there's something affecting one bank of the engine and not the other. Exhaust leaks or a faulty O2 sensor would be examples.

        Moisture in the distributor would also affect all cylinders, not only the left bank of the engine.
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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