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Why work on your own car?

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  • Why work on your own car?

    I'll show you a recent example.....

    I've got several projects going at the same time. Heck, everything I have ever driven from a new car down to a 30 year old wreck has been a project in motion. The Fiero had sheared a timing gear and when that happens everything simply quits. It's not an interferance motor so everything else was fine. The timing gears are a composit that typically last about 100K miles. Well, I just didn't have time to pull everything apart and do that while all my other stuff is going on so I decided to farm out the repair.

    I tow the car to a local shop and tell them exactly what to replace, gave them a repair proceedure complete with all part numbers too. They give me an estimate of 3-4 days to do the car. I looked at him and laughed. The reason is that I take every time estimate from a commercial shop, double it... add 2 weeks for various parts screw ups, plus one week for correcting problems that are created during the repair. He insisted about his time frame, so I just shook my head and said " we'll see".

    Sure enough, in 4 days I stop by the shop and the car is disassembled. He tells me that the camshaft thrust plate broke upon removal. No big deal, I already told them in the plan to replace it anyway. He says that the local dealer doesn't know how to get the part, they have no number, etc.... I asked him did he bother to read the 10 page packet I gave him? Obviously he didn't and couldn't find it. A quick trip to my office just around the corner and I pull up the part number and call him. He is blown away that I could get it that quickly.

    Fast foreward to the next week.........

    I stop by again and the car is still apart. He tells me the part that the dealer sent was the wrong part and he had to order it again.

    Fast foreward to the next week.........

    I stop by the shop again. The car is still apart. He says the dealer sent the part and it is still different. I take a trip back to the office and do a little research. There is a new part that replaces the old one. I print the photos and hand them to him. He recognizes the new part and said that's what the dealer sent him. Well, I calmly explain that this is the correct replacement and to use it.

    Fast foreward to the next week......

    I stop by the shop and everything is getting buttoned up. The car will be ready the next day. The next day comes around and I pick up the car right at closing time. I take the car out on the road and immediatly I can tell that something is wrong. It's really lazy and no power. It dawned on me that when I first got the car and was tuning it, the balancer timing line didn't line up properly and I ended up tuning it by ear so to speak. The timing marks were about 45º off. I re-timed it by feel and ear and the car was running great. So I figured that was the problem. Nevermind that I told him on the phone that when he went to time it, the marks would be off and he would have to do it by feel. Evidently that went in one ear and right out the other. So I figure that when I get it home, I'll fix it. Too bad I didn't get home. 2 miles up the road, the temps are climbing, the oil light is flickering on and the car is starting to run even worse. I hear some mechanical noise and I just shut it down.........

    Of course the shop is closed, it is 89º degrees outside and I am wearing a suit. Just for kicks I reach down and grab the distributer and it rotates by hand.... it wasn't locked down. I immediatly fire the car and in 5 seconds re-time it and the throttle response is great. Still noise, so I shut it off. It is then that I notice that 2 lug nuts are missing from the right rear wheel. they are sitting in the trunk.

    So I call AAA and have them tow the car back to the shop. My guess is that when the timing gear sheared, they didn't get all the debris. I would have pulled the oil pan and cleaned it out. I doubt they did that. Debris probably made it's way to the oil pump. Due to how much time they had the car, I'll bet they took some last minute short cuts to get the car out of there, get paid so that he could make his payroll. That is the typical week by week pay system.

    So needless to say, their repair time took about what I thought, the amount of research and stress was worse than expected, the end result is still a bunch of problems including the a/c is not working either.

    This story is real and typical of the crap that caused me at an early age to learn mechanics. It was invaluable when I got the first engine transplant back in my 79 T/A. When I got the car back from the mechanic's, I had to completely go through all the vacuum lines and ignition to get it to run and shift correctly. I don't know what it is about cookie cutter mechanic shops where they don't pay any attention to detail. My god, this fiero was a pig when I picked it up and even that was simply a timing adjustment. That could be overlooked, but the loss of oil pressure and lack of lugnuts in completely due to lack of attention to detail.


    This folks, is exactly the reason that you (we) work on cars.

    In the 25 years I've been messing with cars, I rarely let anyone else work on them. Whever I do, I am reminded of why I do it myself. I am to the point that I want a tire mounting machine and a balancing machine. I can't even tolerate getting tires put on the car because the rims get scratched. So in short, the way we take care of our cars is not the way the typical shops will. Whenever possible, do your own mechanical work. If you don't know how, get an assembly manual and start leaning. Cars are merely a 3D jigsaw puzzle, some things require specialty tools but even that can be overcome. Most likely even a novice will pay more attention to detail if he is working on his own ride.


    Good grief, now I have to wait until next week for the rest of this soap opera to unfold.

  • #2
    and your point is?






























    hahahaaaaaaaaaaaaa


    d&r

    The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

    2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

    Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
    Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
    sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

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    • #3
      Joe........I know exactly how you feel and I can certainly relate to many of the things you mention. I am absolutely paranoid if I ever have to take my car to someone to work on so I try and do everything myself also. But it isn't always possible. In some ways I am relieved when my (new) cars are out of warranty so I don't have to deal with the dealership. In fact I have done some repairs myself even with my cars under warranty because I didn't trust the dealer to do it right. Sometimes my wife looks at me like I am crazy for doing things like that.

      I sure hope these guys get the Fiero fixed properly. Your story is all too typical unfortunately and sounds like a bit of a nightmare. Good luck.
      2000 Camaro SS..........6 speed triple black

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      • #4
        I hear ya... Same thing happens to me most of the time. I'm lucky I have 2 friends that are mechanics. I can call on them or use the ones shop when something breaks.
        2005 GTO (mine) K&N CAI and Magnaflow exhaust, drilled and slotted rotors, and other minor mods.
        1994 Formula (mine) SOLD 6-23-08 Still miss it
        2002 V6 Firebird (wifes)
        2013 GMC Sierra (mine)
        2011 Cadillac CTS4 (wifes)

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        • #5
          Originally posted by wolfman
          and your point is?



          hahahaaaaaaaaaaaaa


          d&r

          Bite me.



          Comment


          • #6
            I hate having anyone work on my car-I huess i have "trust issues" -i used to have a fiero and was having some minor work done--they couldnt find the engine--kept calling about how to open the hood-i explained where the release was and they kept saying no that cant be it -that is for the trunk-- at that point i told them i would be by in an hour to pick it up--just have the part ready for me--WOW
            Black '96 Z28, loudmouth exhaust, Mac mid length headers, crane cams powermax 104227 cam, crane 1.6rr,'s, springs, lifters and pushrods. MSD distributor, slp ultra z hood with air box, bbk 52mm throttle body, march underdrive pulleys, hpp+, 1le sway bars, spohn LCA's and relo brackets, Spohn SFC's, adj panhard bar, bilstein shocks, H&R springs, strut tower brace...Audio-Alpine head unit, MB Quart 6.5" component in the front and 6.5" Boston in the rear w Alpine 75x4 amp, Alpine Type-X 12 in the trunk w/ alpine 1000w amp

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            • #7
              I've always done all my own work on cars. Basically taught myself and was lucky enough to have a good friend who was mechanically gifted. The only time my cars see a shop is for inspection, tire, or tranny work. They always seem to come out worse than when they went in.

              I always took every car to the same shop for all this work so that I formed a relationship with them. They realized how I took care of my cars, and respected that, and in turn didn't try to screw me over, and even gave me use of their lifts when I wanted to work on the car myself but couldn't get it up high enough at home. If you ever need work done at a shop, find a place that you trust and make it a point to stick with it. They'll appreciate the loyalty and (usually) appreciate the condition we enthusiasts keep our cars in.

              Some shops I just wonder how they stay in business
              Dave M
              Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


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              • #8
                You wrote exactly how we feel Joe
                In all honesty, for me, it's not a matter of trust anymore. I know they will screw up the car. It's a matter of knowing what these clowns did to our cars in the past... screwing them up and getting a bunch of money for it. When I took the T/A into the first shop after the sugar in the tank, he disregarded anything I said about the sugar, and said it was running poorly due to the fact I had aftermarket MAF ends, and my 12000 mile plugs and wires were bad. Without my consent, he ended up replacing my plugs and wires - my 8mm wires and NGK plugs with 7mm and Delco platinums - for $500. Oh yea, and exactly what happened to Joe happened to me...it ran merely OK for a couple miles, then started shaking voilently.
                Many "mechanics" will flat out try and rip you off. However, even honest ones will mis-diagnose or screw something up. That's why I now consider it pointless to take it in.
                94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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                • #9
                  I've been forced to buy cars from dealerships 20 minutes out of town and more, because I've infuriated all the one's around me with what they call "nit-picking". I don't call grease on my carpets nitpicking, but whatever...

                  the worst was when I had my Lumina Z34, the dealership tore down the top half of my engine because of a knock. I was sure it was internal, and sure enough, it was the rear motor mount. The rubber bushing had worked loose, and the two brackets from the mount were knocking together. I was without my car for a week, and it leaked oil from the valve covers afterward. I hate dealerships.
                  SOLD: 2002 Trans Am WS.6 - Black on Black - 6 Speed
                  SLP Loudmouth Exhaust
                  17K Miles

                  2005 Acura TL - Silver on Black
                  Navigation - Surround Audio - Bluetooth

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                  • #10
                    Joe, I think the worst thing is that you gave them the car to work on against your better judgement. Having figured out all the possible screwups that they would inflict on you and your car, you still underestimated their incompetence. Now, you have had the final reinforcement of the past lessons you have learned.

                    NEVER, EVER, EVER LET ANY DEALERSHIP TOUCH YOUR CAR FOR ANY REASON IF IT IS AT ALL POSSIBLE!!!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Joe 1320
                      I am to the point that I want a tire mounting machine and a balancing machine.
                      The tire shops always use torque wrenches too.

                      My feelings exactly Joe. I always did my own work on my first rides. I bought my first new car in 1988 - Pontiac Sunbird GT (2.0L Turbo). I decided to start the dealer service routine. 3000 miles - dealer strips the oil plug bolt putting it in. No car for 1 week (new pan) - 2 months later front main seal is leaking.

                      6000 - I'm still stupid. How about Jiffy Lube? The only do oil changes, how could they f that up? Here's how: Leave air cleaner cover sitting on the strut tower. Lower hood half way and "drop it" to close it. Only the emergency latch catches, not fully closed and sitcking up WAY crooked on the side where air cleaner cover is on strut tower...........Guess the next move yet? Would you be foolish enough to think that they will lift the hood back up to see what is wrong on a brand new car??????..................hahahahaha











                      No! The JA puts two hands on the hood where the latch is and basically leverages all his weight to push it all the way closed. Air cleaner cover shatters and hood bends. To the dealership body shop (new hood and latch)for 2 weeks+. I admit I tried to get the dude fired. Wasn't gonna happen since the owner said it was his lead tech.

                      Never again Joe, never again.

                      Sean
                      1994 Z28, 6 spd, LE2 Heads, GM 1.6 RR, .026" head gasket, SLP: CAI-Headers (CARB legal)-ypipe-2 on the left-lightweight flywheel-short throw, Random tech cat, CF dual friction, LT-4 KM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
                        Joe, I think the worst thing is that you gave them the car to work on against your better judgement.
                        I know.....

                        If I didn't have other priorities at the moment, I would have done it myself. It was PITA job to begin with and I really needed to keep working on the f-bodies. I'm not kidding when I say I have tons of accumulated parts that are going into other cars. I've re-learned another lesson.

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                        • #13
                          Our 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan is under factory warrenty. Last year the power steering begen to groan really loud. I took it in, asking them to replace the pump. They sited a TSB for a problem with the hoses and changed one hose. The sound was gone for the time being. I didnt bother to read the receipt and assumed they replaced the pump.

                          We left for a trip to Denver. As soon as we got in the mountains and it downshifted for the grade the power steering pump once again began to groan, very loud. I was really surprised, because I though it had been replaced. It groaned for the entire week we were in Denver, and all the way back home.

                          When we arrived home I looked at the receipt for the repair and saw they only replaced a hose. I was very angry.

                          I called the dealer and arranged to bring the van back in. I dropped it off and they called me later that day telling me that they could not find a problem with it and they did not hear any noise from the pump. I explained to them that I am a pretty good mechanic myself and normally do all my own work including complete engine swaps. I told him I was 100% posative the power steering pump was shot and if the van was not under warrenty I would be replacing it myself.

                          He told me he could not replace it unless his technitian saw it had failed. I told him to keep the stupid van. I didnt want it back until it had a new pump in it. It was not relaible and it is pointless for me to have my wife and kids drive it knowing it is going to break down at some point.

                          He was shocked at my demands and finally agreed to replace the pump as a "favor" to me.
                          Tracy
                          2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                          1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                          Current Mods:
                          SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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