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Spark Plug Wires??

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  • Spark Plug Wires??

    Ok Tommorrow im changing the Spark plug wires and Spark plugs... I want to Get 8mm wires.. they have a set at auto Zone ... Do i need Special Wires for the f-body.. Or will any old wire work.. when i looked at the opti it looked like some special connector on the terminal ends? any clue? also spark plugs, Any suggestions thought about the Bosch Double Platinums.. are the quad PLats worth the money?? any help woud be great......

  • #2
    I believe the LT1 spark plug wires are vehicle specific, and the universal ones will not work. I got mine on ebay for a steal, because nobody local stocked anything other than the run-of-the-mill ones. Also, I don't run platinum plugs anymore because I run nitrous, however, even if you do spring for the platinum, don't expect them to last 100,000 miles like some people claim.

    One more thing, if you think you're gonna do plugs and wires on an LT1 car in one day, well, you need to do a search and see how long it's taken others. Mine was 2 8 hour days, as the wires are a PITA. Alternator has to come off, and the power steering pump has to be loosened. And that's just the EASY stuff you have to do
    "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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    • #3
      May the genious at GM who designed the LT1 wire configuration become unemployed and be forced to drive an ice cream truck at minimum wage for the rest of his life for such bad engineering.
      1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
      Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
      Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

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      • #4
        They are not bad in the Vette wich the LT1 was made for in '92 but a disaster for the F-body.


        LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-BP, GMPP 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, Adj. tierod, BMR tower brace, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 GY F1 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam

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        • #5
          yea i know it wont be fast but im pulling the headers to make it easier and i have a car lift so hopefully it wont be long....

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          • #6
            The quickest way to do the job is from under the car. I can do it in a few hours on mine.

            remove the battery, alternator and harmonic balancer. Then unplug the 8 wires from the opti. Next, reach up from below between the starter and exhaust pipe on the passenger side. Unplug all 4 wires. Now remove the wires from the guides and get them out of there. Next go over to the drivers side and reach up to unplug all 4 wires. remove the wires from the guides and get them out.

            Removing the starter will allow extra room if you need it also, if you have fat arms. Now stay under the car and start removing the spark plugs. The #2 and # 8 are the hardest IMO and you might be able to get them easier from on top.

            Dont forget to use anti-seize on the new plugs after gapping them. Also coat the insides of the boots with dielectric grease.
            Tracy
            2002 C5 M6 Convertible
            1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
            Current Mods:
            SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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