valve adjustment

[cabldawg]

could someone please tell me what the specs are for clearance/ ft lbs on the push rods/rockers? 1995 T/A 350 I'm trying to get my car back together and my book is not accessible right now. thanks

[Rob B (shoebox)]

Can you give a clue as to what year/car/engine/cam/type of lifters?

[cabldawg]

i'm sorry. i just noticed that i didn't put that in. 1995 T/A 350 stock roller cam & lifters

[SteveH95Formula]

He did give that info. "1995 T/A 350"
There are no clearance on a hydraulic lifter, nor torque for that matter. Most people just put them on snug and then back them off until they rattle and tighten them up until zero lash then 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn with enigne running.
You don't want to tighen them too much or the valve won't close all the way.

Now if you want to go by the assembly manual it says 1 turn +/- 1/4 turn down from zero lash. Assuming you are using the stock ball type stamped steel rocker arms.

could someone please tell me what the specs are for clearance/ ft lbs on the push rods/rockers? 1995 T/A 350 I'm trying to get my car back together and my book is not accessible right now. thanks

[cabldawg]

Does it matter what position they are in for zero lash? I'd like to get it as close as possible and then adjust by ear. Thanks.........

I edited the original post a few minutes later to include yr and model.I did forget

[Injuneer]

You are fortunate that Rob/Shoebox responded to your post. He has one of the best (actually, the best) LT1 "how to" websites available.

Unfortunately, you didn't give any info about your car, so he couldn't give you the link to his procedure for adjusting the valves.

Helpful Hint: Add a "signature" to all your initial posts, so that people can answer your questions as accurately as possible. In the "signature" field in your "Profile", indicate the year, trans type, any major mods, and anything else that distinguishes your car from everyone elses.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves

[fastTa]

He did give that info. "1995 T/A 350"
There are no clearance on a hydraulic lifter, nor torque for that matter. Most people just put them on snug and then back them off until they rattle and tighten them up until zero lash then 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn with enigne running.
You don't want to tighen them too much or the valve won't close all the way.

Now if you want to go by the assembly manual it says 1 turn +/- 1/4 turn down from zero lash. Assuming you are using the stock ball type stamped steel rocker arms.

It appears that he edited his post to include his car info. No biggie.

I would agree that adjusting valve lash really needs to be done with the car at idle. You need working oil pressure to have the lifter plunger accurately pressurized in order to properly adjust valve lash. It can be done without the motor running while it is warm, but it really should be done at idle.

[Rob B (shoebox)]

Having the engine running is not a requirement and many people don't like to do it that way. Most procedures are with the engine not running and have worked fine since the dawn of hydraulic lifters.
There is a spring inside the lifter that provides pressure on the plunger, so I can't see how having oil pressure is going to make any difference on amount of preload. The spring will keep the plunger inside the lifter fully extended (rocker loose and before determining zero lash) and no amount of extra oil pressure is going to going to make it extend further.
Turning the nut a certain amount is going to add the same amount of preload no matter how much pressure there is in the lifter. IMO it's more a matter of personal preference.

[Injuneer]

It appears that he edited his post to include his car info. No biggie.

Kevin:

Not sure why it upset you, but I'm simply offering a "helpful hint" so he gets better responses in the future. Editing the text of the post won't really help create a "signature". Just trying to do what I perceive to be the Moderator's role.

Fred

[cabldawg]

I sure didn't want to start a problem by not providing the info on my car, or by editing the post. I noticed a few minutes later that I didn't provide that info and by the time I saw a reply I had already edited it. As I didn't refresh the page before I edited the post.

Now that I'm done with that.

I have done as suggested and I have the valve train very quiet. I am still experiencing a knock in the motor. (or at least what I would perceive as a knock.) I'll have to look at this further.

Thanks to everyone for the quick responses to my question!

[fastTa]

Having the engine running is not a requirement and many people don't like to do it that way. Most procedures are with the engine not running and have worked fine since the dawn of hydraulic lifters.
There is a spring inside the lifter that provides pressure on the plunger, so I can't see how having oil pressure is going to make any difference on amount of preload. The spring will keep the plunger inside the lifter fully extended (rocker loose and before determining zero lash) and no amount of extra oil pressure is going to going to make it extend further.
Turning the nut a certain amount is going to add the same amount of preload no matter how much pressure there is in the lifter. IMO it's more a matter of personal preference.

Never used the word requirement. Read before you post a quote. The spring inside a OEM factory lifter is very weak. And having the engine running at idle DOES provide more resistance between the pushrod and the lifter cup. Common sense if you understand a hydraulic lifter and the way it internally meters oil.

[Rob B (shoebox)]

Never used the word requirement. Read before you post a quote. The spring inside a OEM factory lifter is very weak. And having the engine running at idle DOES provide more resistance between the pushrod and the lifter cup. Common sense if you understand a hydraulic lifter and the way it internally meters oil.

Never quoted you, dude. I knew this would ruffle feathers. I stand by what I said. I don't think you got what I was saying.

[fastTa]

Kevin:

Not sure why it upset you, but I'm simply offering a "helpful hint" so he gets better responses in the future. Editing the text of the post won't really help create a "signature". Just trying to do what I perceive to be the Moderator's role.

Fred

Upset me? SteveH95Formula stated that he did in fact state that he had a "1995 T/A 350". I took that to mean he thought it was included in the original post. So I myself was just trying to help by attempting to clarify for Steve that he had added the info in an edit. That's what I meant by "No biggie."

I agree that a signature helps out alot.

[fastTa]

I sure didn't want to start a problem by not providing the info on my car, or by editing the post. I noticed a few minutes later that I didn't provide that info and by the time I saw a reply I had already edited it. As I didn't refresh the page before I edited the post.

Now that I'm done with that.

I have done as suggested and I have the valve train very quiet. I am still experiencing a knock in the motor. (or at least what I would perceive as a knock.) I'll have to look at this further.

Thanks to everyone for the quick responses to my question!

No worries on your car info. It happens all the time. Sucks that you still have a knock after getting all the valve lash squared away. Is it possible for you to post a sound clip?

[cabldawg]

I'll try to get one tomorrow. It was rather aggervating after all of that work.