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cant decide on the right system.

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  • cant decide on the right system.

    I want to buy an entry level nitious system that can be cranked up a bit if I ever get the money to go with forged internals. I am looking at the cold fusion lt1 kit. All I really know about it is that its a wet kit and it has 8 jets that range from 50-200. The other one I was thinking about was some nitrious express kit. I cant remember what it was called off the top of my head but i think it was gemini or something like that. It had adjustable up to 150 and you could get a twin system and run a dual stage. I dont really know much about the nx system other than the single stage costed about 500 and the dual staged costed 800. The cold fusion was about 470, I am wondering if that means it sucks. I know in alot of cases you get what you pay for. Try to help me decide between the two or suggest another system.

  • #2
    Basically what you are paying for are two things, the name brand, and the solenoids. Everything else is DOT bottles, wiring, switches, braided lines, which are all the same. It's the solenoids that are the key. I know nothing of the cold fusion kits, so I can't recommend them. I run exclusively N.O.S. products, and I have a friend that runs exclusively NX products, so I can recommend them both. I have had zero problems out of my car and my bike, so I know my stuff works when I need it to.
    "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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    • #3
      you are getting into dangerous things. Many people have blown their engines with that stuff. If you don't know what you're doing it can mean disaster. It doesn't sound like you know what you're doing. I would not recommend install a nitrous kit on your car. I will install nitrous.... As soon as I can afford to rebuild my motor. Until then it's just bolt ons.
      97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

      01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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      • #4
        Originally posted by raroZ28
        you are getting into dangerous things. Many people have blown their engines with that stuff. If you don't know what you're doing it can mean disaster. It doesn't sound like you know what you're doing. I would not recommend install a nitrous kit on your car. I will install nitrous.... As soon as I can afford to rebuild my motor. Until then it's just bolt ons.
        I would have to disagree. There are many safe bolt on kits available today. He will not blow up his engine if it is in good condition. Now if there was a problem with the motor already, the nitrous could worsen it. I dont have nitrous on my current car, but have had it in the past and it never hurt anything. I just dont like having to refill a seperate bottle to go fast.

        Todays bolt on kits are pretty well thought out. Somebody else already did the work. Just make sure you purchase a reputable kit and it will be fine.
        Tracy
        2002 C5 M6 Convertible
        1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
        Current Mods:
        SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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        • #5
          I would also disagree that it is courting disaster. Like anything else, you have to use some common sense, learn about the subject, and ask for experienced help before you take the big steps. Get greedy, act stupid, and it will be a disaster, but that's true with many aspects of a high performance vehicle.

          Back in late 1994, right after I bought my car, it was obvious I needed more HP. I looked at blowers and nitrous, neither of which I really knew anything about. After looking at what was available, I bought the NOS 5176 dry kit. I think I was one of the first users, because the dealers knew nothing of the kit, and NOS had limited experience with some of the questions I asked them about.

          I installed the kit EXACTLY per the instructions - and the NOS instructions were EXCELLENT. That alone would make them a preferred source. I had a minor problem with fuel, because I was using an AFPR, and NOS told me it would work with the kit. It didn't, so NOS and I both learned something. After that, the kit proved reliable for 5 years of light use. When we pulled the engine out at 65K miles for the storker buildup, it was in perfect condition. No signs of stress from the nitrous.

          But I never got greedy. I was spraying somewhere between 125-150HP. I had a fuel pressure safety switch, WOT switch, a fuel pressure gauge, a bottle pressure gauge, bottle heater, remote valve and not much else. I added an MSD-6A and tried to live with the stock plugs (NOS hadn't discovered at that point in time that they were no good for nitrous. They simple said to keep the stock plugs, and either regap them to 0.035 or leave them at 0.050 and use the MSD.). After burning a few plugs, I switched to the TR6's. I also left the stock injectors in there, again because NOS said they would be OK. I never had a problem with them, but eventually swapped in a set of pintle type injectors, as people learned more about the limits of the stock injectors. I never used any type of timing retard box, and in that aspect, I think I got lucky. I never used a window switch, but knew not to spray under 2,500rpm. Made it a bit tricky to launch on a track, because I had to come out at 90% throttle, then hit it when the revs came up.

          After building the stroker, I reused many of the NOS parts. The iniline fuel pump is still going strong after 9 years. The solenoids have been rebuilt once, but that to me is just preventive maintenance. NX users like to trash NOS for the fact that NX guarantees the solenoids for life and will rebuild them for free, but a rebuild kit for the seals is about $35.... no big deal, I keep a couple spares in my tool box.

          Nitrous is not certain disaster. Like anything, it takes a bit of common sense. I would say you need to learn as much as possible BEFORE you use it. I read a lot of posts by experienced users on some of these forums, and its clear from an engineering perspective that they don't truely understand how it works. The better you understand the "science", the better results you are going to have.
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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          • #6
            Im gonna chime in here and add my vote for "Go for it!". Nitrous is very safe if it is jetted and tuned properly. I started using nitrous when I was 18 or 19 years old.....I was by no means an auto wizard (im still not, but getting better ). I followed the instructions, and everything went fine with that car (except for my first time at the track- which is another story!!). That was an NOS wet kit for the TPI motors. I ran that for a couple years until I sold the car (150 shot).

            I am now using the TNT kit and I think that it is a great kit. Ive used the NOS stuff, and its good, but I prefer the TNT kit. It hits a lot harder than my NOS kit every did (but that could be due to other variables). THe quality of their components and the way they put together the kit is better (my opinion). It comes a nice liquid filled guage, full size nitrous filter, and a few other extras.

            Do your research.......find out whether you prefer dry or wet.....buy the fuel pressure switch, full throttle switch (if it doesnt already come w/ it), and all of the safety stuff.....buy a good book on N2O use - read, read, read, and you'll be fine.
            96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
            11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

            Comment


            • #7
              engine drugs..........

              steriods............

              cheaters...........


              heathens..............




              LOL




              d&r



              The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

              2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

              Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
              Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
              sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by wolfman
                engine drugs..........

                steriods............

                cheaters...........


                heathens..............




                LOL




                d&r



                Thats what they all say after theyre staring at my tail lights for a quarter mile.......
                96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                Comment


                • #9
                  Just as a little side note, if you do plan on going this route on your LT1 car, you need to ask Injuneer. You can see by his post that he knows what he's talking about, and he's helped a bunch of people with their nitrous questions. As a matter of fact, when I was putting my kit on, I must have emailed him 10 times and posted all over our old f-body board. I did it per the instructions with a whole lot of side help from Injuneer, and have not ever had any problems with my car.

                  Basically, if I answer a nitrous question, then there's a 97% chance that I learned the answer myself from Injuneer. So I guess that makes him Pete and I'm Repeat
                  "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

                  Comment

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