How hard would it be to install the ignition control module in my car? It is just under the coil packs right on top of the engine, right? I just don't want to pay the dealer to do it if I don't have to. Especially after they quoted me twice the cost of the part that I could get it for from another shop here in town. Can you tell me how I would go about getting the old one out and the new one in? Is it just a matter of pulling the old one off and slapping the new one in place, or is it more involved? thanks for any help/input.
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Paging Joe1320 or Fred....Can I pick your brain one more time?
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Im not Joe, or Fred, but I answered this in your other post too (before i saw this one)........its real easy. Unbolt the coil packs and pull them off the module. You can even leave the wires still attached. Unbolt the module from the backing, unplug it and replace! Piece of cake.....literally a 15 minute job. The only tools you will need it a ratchet and socket.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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I think its going to VERY straight forward. In all honesty, I have never looked carefully under the hood of a V6. But I do have a shop manual for the V6, and I will take a look at it when I get home from work.
You might want to think about picking up a shop manual. I don't think you need the Helm factory manual (not at $120 or whatever they cost). I would recommend you pick up a Chilton's. I like them better than Haynes. After skinning my knuckles for 40 years on assorted cars and trucks, I still make a quick review of the manual my first step before I do anything. For less than $20 (try Amazon) the Chilton's answers about 90% of your questions.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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easy greasy job...okay, maybe not greasy, but it's easy. I've help change my friends Monte with a 3.8...I assume it just as easy. I've seen the coil packs on a 3.8 f-body, it's on the driverside...next to the intake manifold. two screws and they should come right out. like N20LT4Bird said...15 minute job tops, but I assume how tight it is under the windshield, you might get a few cuts/scraps in the process.
There's 3 of them and they should cost no more than 35 bucks each (advance auto). At least that's how much we paid for his. He upgraded to MSD blaster coils later on...
MSD coil packs
Christopher Teng
1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
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B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
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Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune
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Cool, thanks guys! You may have just saved me some $$$. I will probably just pick up the part tomorrow and tell the dealer I am doing it myself and just pay them for the labor so far and take it home. Definitely better than paying them $60/HR to do it, and probably get charged 2 hours worth for it.
I was actually just thinking about looking to see if there was a Chilton's manual out for my car yet. I think I might order that and a scanner at the same time. I'm tired of being helpless when my car takes a dump. Thanks for all the help guys. I'll let you know how I make out.
2000 Black Camaro w/3800 V6. Hotchkis STB, Whisper Lid, K&N, Flowmaster exhaust.
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Chilton's shows the 3.8 V6 as very straight forward. Key off, pull battery cable. Label plug wires and any other connections before you unplug them, remove the 2 nuts and 1 screw that hold the module to the brackets over the driver's side valve cover. Reverse steps to replace. Finished.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by Performin NormanI think between Joe and Fred, they sum to about 90% of the knowledge on this board. Props to you guys.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by Performin NormanI think between Joe and Fred, they sum to about 90% of the knowledge on this board. Props to you guys.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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Originally posted by InjuneerChilton's shows the 3.8 V6 as very straight forward. Key off, pull battery cable. Label plug wires and any other connections before you unplug them, remove the 2 nuts and 1 screw that hold the module to the brackets over the driver's side valve cover. Reverse steps to replace. Finished.I picked the car up from the dealer after work...that little diagnosis cost me $250.
Stupid freakin rip off artists. Anyway, I got it home and took the STB off so that I can get to the module tomorrow. Then I labeled all the wires. I am going to need to buy a socket to fit the little bolts holding the coil packs down cause my set doesn't have one that small (I'll also need a new wsher for my STB since I dropped one and it disappeared
). It looks like a 1/8"? Anyway, I will pick up the new module during my lunch break tomorrow and try to put it on after work. If anyone knows where I get my code for my stereo, then I will be all set to get to work on it. Thanks again for the help, guys.
2000 Black Camaro w/3800 V6. Hotchkis STB, Whisper Lid, K&N, Flowmaster exhaust.
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Originally posted by TODD 2000 V6 CAMAROOne more question....if I pull the battery cable, then I will need the code for my stereo, won't I? Anyone know where I can get that? I don't want to be without my tunes!I picked the car up from the dealer after work...that little diagnosis cost me $250.
Stupid freakin rip off artists. Anyway, I got it home and took the STB off so that I can get to the module tomorrow. Then I labeled all the wires. I am going to need to buy a socket to fit the little bolts holding the coil packs down cause my set doesn't have one that small (I'll also need a new wsher for my STB since I dropped one and it disappeared
). It looks like a 1/8"? Anyway, I will pick up the new module during my lunch break tomorrow and try to put it on after work. If anyone knows where I get my code for my stereo, then I will be all set to get to work on it. Thanks again for the help, guys.
Steve
79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep everMods
87 GN - its just a 6...Mods
93 Z28 - slightly tweakedMods
http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez
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Do you know if anyone ever set a code for the stereo? If it wasn't programmed with a code, you can access it with the default code shown in the owner's manual. That would be how you had to set it up intially. The Theft-Lok feature is only activated it someone took the time to activate it. Check your owner's manual, and it will tell you how to set it up.
If it has been set up, and you don't know it, the dealer can "get" the code by calling a special phone number with some data from your head unit, but I seriously doubt they will do it for free.
About a month or so ago, there was a thread on the "General F-Body Tech" board at CZ28.com that explained how to get the master unlock code for your specific unit yourself, including the phone number to call, a dealer code to use, and what number you needed off the display of your head unit and how to get it.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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I would just not bother unplugging the battery......just make sure the key isnt on.Ive never had a problem replacing a module with the battery hooked up......ive replaced a few modules on many different vehicles before.
96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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