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What brake "line-lock"

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  • #1

    What brake "line-lock"

    do you guys recommend. Is their any issues or advice on the install??? If you have any pics of the hookups under the hood and the controls inside the car it would be appreciated too.

    I'm going to be putting on Nitto DR's on the back for drag racing and they have to be heated up good to grab properly.

    Thanks!!!!

    Kevin Villier 2002 SS #186 - 6M with Hurst and "short-stick", T-Tops, navy blue, chrome SS wheels, Bilstein suspension, SS grill, BMR STB, chrome-moly panhard rod and LCA's, SLP SFC's, PPC LT's w/ RT hi-flo cats and hi-flo Y, TEA Stage 1.5 5.3L heads, TR224 cam, ASP pulley, SLP loudmouth, Direct-Flo lid, Holley Power-Shot filter, Mallory polished MAF ends, 4.10 gears.

    Louisville, KY

    SSOA F02-0186
    KY F-Bodies Unlimited
    Tags: None
  • #2
    There are a couple of ways to go....

    SLP sells a line lock kit specifically for your car, with prebent lines. I believe you will also find a Hurst based kit at Thunder Racing, with lines and optional electrical switches, relay and a harness. SJM Manufacturing has a very high quality kit, with pre-bent lines.

    After that, it becomes "do it yourself". You can get a Biondo solenoid for about $40 (compared to the Hurst at $100+), and make your own lines. The GM lines are a bit of a problem to fabricate because they use a "bubble" flare, and metric fittings.

    I have the Hurst solenoid, homemade lines (a shop made them, and I wish they had been a bit neater). At first I tried to use a Hurst trigger switch that clipped on the shift lever with a rubber band. I didn't really like that, because it moved around when I shifted into 2nd for the burnout. Now I just have a rocker switch on the console..... flip it to lock the front brakes, get the tires spinning, then flip it "off" and let the car roll out of the box.

    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

    Comment

    • #3
      Originally posted by Injuneer
      There are a couple of ways to go....

      After that, it becomes "do it yourself". You can get a Biondo solenoid for about $40 (compared to the Hurst at $100+), and make your own lines. The GM lines are a bit of a problem to fabricate because they use a "bubble" flare, and metric fittings.
      This is what I did. I just used the factory line from the master to the ABS unit. I made up another line to from the solenoid to the ABS unit.....I must have used an adapter for the buuble flare (its been a while since I did it). I dont remember having too much trouble fabricating my own stuff though.

      Originally posted by Injuneer
      Now I just have a rocker switch on the console..... flip it to lock the front brakes, get the tires spinning, then flip it "off" and let the car roll out of the box.
      I use a rocker switch too. Its a little more awkward to release at the end of the burnout, but my nitrous button is on the shifter, so that spot was taken.
      96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
      11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

      Comment

      • #4
        I've rewired the car so many times, I can't remember..... used to have the pushbutton on the shift handle for 2nd stage nitrous. When I switched to a single stage, I rewired the button on the shift handle to engage the GV overdrive....hopefully required at the end of the track, if trap speeds exceed 130mph

        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

        Comment

        • #5
          does any one make steel braided hose line that would would do away with the need to bend the steel hard lines? rember i am in the uk so it is not as easy for me to get parts and if i said to a motor factor that i need bulbble fittings on a brake line i think they would think i was crazy
          http://www.pontiacdriversclub.co.uk/ keeping it pontiac in the the uk. 93 formula a4 ZR1 rims
          C A I , B M R torque arm lower arms panhard rod and sub frame conectors borla adjustble with Q T P valve and no cat WHAT NEXT ?

          big burn out movie nats 2003 burn out contest
          mirror burn out movie top ten burn outs

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          • #6
            Are you still on your stock 10 bolt??
            Silver 02 WS-6, 6 speed, Corsa cat-back, SLP lid, K&N filter, BMR STB, !CAGs, Lou's short stick, MSD wires, MTI "Hammer" cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Comp 918s, TR pushrods, UMI Sfcs, UMI LCAs, NGK TR55s, Hotchkis springs



            Dyno'd 4/24: 330.9 RWHP/ 344.8 RWTQ (Before cam, headers, and pulley)

            Dyno'd 5/1: 383.5 RWHP / 380.5 RWTQ (393 actual RWHP)

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by casey02ws6
              Are you still on your stock 10 bolt??
              I'm still on the stock 10 bolt, with 4.10 gears installed. I recently put heads and cam and had to replace the clutch because the LS6 clutch couldn't handle the HP and TQ. Clutch went first, I figure I need to start looking for a 12 bolt to buy soon, well, once I break the clutch in first.

              Kevin Villier 2002 SS #186 - 6M with Hurst and "short-stick", T-Tops, navy blue, chrome SS wheels, Bilstein suspension, SS grill, BMR STB, chrome-moly panhard rod and LCA's, SLP SFC's, PPC LT's w/ RT hi-flo cats and hi-flo Y, TEA Stage 1.5 5.3L heads, TR224 cam, ASP pulley, SLP loudmouth, Direct-Flo lid, Holley Power-Shot filter, Mallory polished MAF ends, 4.10 gears.

              Louisville, KY

              SSOA F02-0186
              KY F-Bodies Unlimited

              Comment

              • #8
                I have both brand new pre-bent lines for the LS1... From the SLP LS1 kit. Accidentally bought the wrong kit. Just cover shipping and they are yours. PM me back
                1995 Firebird Formula
                (A4 3.23)Ram Air w/ K&N, TransGo Shift Kit w/3 washers ,SLP~Shorty headers, LoudMouth, Air Foil, LineLocks. Catco Cat. Hypertech 160. TB Bypass. MSD~8.5mm. Walbro 255lph. FT MAF ends. LT4KM. BMR~Adj LCA's, Rear sway, Panhard rod. HAL QA1 rear shocks. Random Tech adj TQ arm. Nitto NT555R's. Covered in Zaino. 13.466@103.85 N/A. [1.948 60' 13.410 @ 102.66 11/20/05]

                Comment

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