4l60e replacement help needed

[94Form]

The transmission in my 94 formula was slipping and had made a few bang and poing noises. Rather than try to figure it out I bought a replacement from a near by parts yard from a 94 trans am with less than 60K miles on it. Here is what I'm asking...

Can someone give me step by step instructions on how to pull one out and install the new one. I have access to a lift and all the tools that would be required. I'm not a mechanic but I've done all the work on my car so far with the help of this forum. She still runs great at 175,000 miles but now all I need to do is replace this bad trans. I also have access to alldata but it isn't very specific with the tricks on how not to crush my hand trying to get to the top bolts, etc.

I plan on doing this over this long holiday weekend. Any help will do. Thanks in advance.

[Trash man]

impact gun, long extension and a universal joint socket. not too many tricks as its str8 forward. just make sure u drain the tranny fluid first and have some1 help u when u take it down and put it back in.

[97LT1Z28]

You made it 175,000 on the stock transmission? Hope mine lasts that long! Like 88bird5spd said, everything is pretty straight forward. Have an assistant ready to help you lower the transmission out of the car and put the newer tranny back in. While you have the replacement out of the car, see about replacing the front and rear seals, new filter kit, stuff like that. As they say in China . . . .Good Ruck.

[fastTa]

If it is the stock pan, don't worry about draining it.

1. Unbolt and remove the tunnel brace / and A4 crossmember.

2. Unbolt the transmission mount / front torque arm mount.

3. Unbolt the rear of the driveshaft from the pinion yoke/ Slide out the DS from the slip yoke.

4. Now that the trans is slightly hanging down, you should be able to reach up and unplug the main harness plug on the passenger side of the trans.

5. Unplug the VSS Sensor (see below pic)

6. Remove the gear selector linkage from the side of trans. The end of the cable is just snapped onto the side of the trans gear selector by means of a ball and socket. Just pry it off. There are 2 bolts that hold the cable bracket to the top of the trans case. I would reccomend not removing the plastic spring clip that retains the cable housing in the mounting bracket. It is just much easier to keep the adjustment and not risk breaking the retainer clips.

6. Unbolt the transmission cooler hard lines from the passenger side of the trans. There are 2 (supply and return).

7. At this point it is a good idea to support the trans with something. Preferably a trans jack. Remove the 6 bellhousing bolts, leaving the top 2 last. Remove the transmisssion fluid dipstick tube. Get a good grip on the tube right at the trans case and pull up while slightly twisting back and forth. The easiest way to get the top bolts is to use several long extensions and work from the rear and over the top of the trans. An impact wrench will make life easy as well. You will want to just slide the trans back far enough to where there is enough gap between the bellhousing and the block to get a wrench in there to remove the converter/flexplate bolts. A large prybar can usually help here.

8. Remove the 3 converter/flexplate bolts on the outer portion of the flexplate, but leave the flexplate bolted to the crank.

9. Unless I have forgotten something , you should now be able to slide out the trans with the converter.

Installation just be pretty straightforward based on the above info.

[94Form]

Thanks so much for all the quick responses. As I mentioned, I'm not a mechanic just very good with my hands. I have no Idea what most of the parts are that FastTA described but I think I can somewhat figure it out.

As for things I should also have, do I need front and rear seals, new filter kit and how much fluid? Also, how much time should I expect to be working on this project? And do I need to remove the exhaust?