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Guys I am going to do brakes and I need to know where I can safely jack up my car?

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  • Guys I am going to do brakes and I need to know where I can safely jack up my car?

    Guys, I hate to be a bother but I need pictures of the proper places to jack up my car using its factory jack!

    I have a 1997 Z28 with 86k miles on it. I am goin to do rotors as well. Any pointers

    I will have to get me a new owners manual for my car, as well as, get the instructions that go in the trunk where the jack is.

    In the mean time will you please help me out?

    I appreciate any help you can give.

    Thanks Lee!
    Lee Stroud in West Virginia

  • #2
    new rotors? if the old ones dont come off, and there aint anything holding them on, whack em wit a sledge. also make sure car is on JACK STANDS, not wood or conceret blocks or the jack itsself. i think ur gonna need a 3/8 allen head socket for the caliper bolts. and if u want what we do at work is when we compress the caliper piston(old pads and a c-clamp) we open the bleader to let the old fluid out, then we bleed them when were done
    2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

    old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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    • #3
      Sorry man, can't help you with the factory jack. Mine came out the day I bought the car because it is a piece. You're going to have to buy jack stands anyway, the least you could do is buy one of those 19.95 Autozone trolley jacks. The easiest way to do it is with a floor jack and jack the car up by it's engine cradle and pumpkin. 4 jack stands, 2 under the cradle, 2 under the axles, and get 'er done.
      "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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      • #4
        There is a PDF version of the owners manual on Shoebox's website. Scroll down to the '97 manual, and goto section 5 page 33.



        http://shbox.com/1/manuals_specs_reference.html

        '87 Camaro - 2.8L MPFI, 700R4 swapped to T5, B&M Ripper Shifter, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, CATCO high flow cat, K&N air filters, 180 degree thermostat w/200-180 fan switch, 3.42 rear end, Global West steering brace, polyurethane bushings/trans mount, Spohn adjustable torque arm.
        '88 Formula (stolen), '96 Camaro RS, (sold), '91 Firebird (sold),
        Bruce, μολων λαβέ

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        • #5
          Put the factory jack EXACTLY where the jacking instrustions on the spare tire/jack cover tell you to. You will see a standing seam of sheet metal pointing straight down, under the rocker panel. About 12" in front of the rear wheel, there will be a notch in the standing seam. That's where the jack goes.

          When you get it up, put a jackstand under the subframe or the axle, and lower the car slightly to put the weight on the stand.

          I personally avoid opening the bleeders. Make sure the master cylinder isn't completely full. If it is, pull some out with a turkey baster. DO NOT get any brake fluid on the paint... it will instantly remove the paint. With space in the master cylinder, and the cap on it, slowly compress the piston back into the caliper with a C-clamp. This way you do not open the bleeder and you don't have to bleed the lines.
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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          • #6
            If it's got 86k on the clock, he should really change the fluid anyway. It's probably brown.

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            • #7
              THanks Guys for your help!
              Lee Stroud in West Virginia

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