My car's been taking 4 - 5 seconds to start on a cold start recently. Could the starter be going out?
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If the starter is cranking the motor normally it is not the problem. Sounds to me like weak spark or some other ignition issue. Maybe the coil or the ICM? Has the SES light come on? You might want to have it scanned for codes.Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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Is it turning slower than normal?....96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
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My wife's old Blazer (2000) was doing that a couple months before we traded it in this year. It had 70,000 on it. I swapped the plugs and wires out. Solved the problem.SOLD: 2002 Trans Am WS.6 - Black on Black - 6 Speed
SLP Loudmouth Exhaust
17K Miles
2005 Acura TL - Silver on Black
Navigation - Surround Audio - Bluetooth
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My car did that when the timing was off. So I would guess if not your fuel filter/pump, probably something in your ignition system like the plugs and wires as suggested above.1999 Ram Air Trans Am. M6
SFC( not sure what kind), drilled/slotted rotors, K&N air filter, all free mods, 3" Borla cat back exaust, electric exaust cut out, NGK spark plugs, royal purple motor oil, and Zaino .Maybe more. I find more stuff done to it everytime I look at it.
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It's not my fuel pump. I had it replaced in October. My SES light did come on once a couple weeks ago and stayed on for the ride home. I started it up again after that and it never came on again. It cranks fine it just takes a while for it to start. I'm having my plugs and wires redone soon with a new opti. Hope that will fix it.Hercules
2008 Sunburst Metallic HHR LT
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Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If the car is not maintaining 25-40 psi at rest, then it's the pump. I put a gauge on mine, and just before it went out, it would go from 40 psi to 0 psi in like 5 seconds after you killed the ignition. What will happen is that the check valve that maintains fuel pressure in the car will break, and any pressure in the line after the car is cut off releases into the tank and dries the line out. So when you turn the car on, the pump is trying to pressurize the line, but the fuel is just pouring back into the tank. So it takes like 3-5 seconds for it to get enough pressure to start. After that the car runs fine, and even if you refire within like a minute or two of shutdown it starts fine. If the car runs fine while driving, refires easily within 1 minute of shutdown, and can still spank non-boosted Mustangs with ease, then it's the fuel pump."No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"
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It could be your fuel filter. To figure out if it's fuel related just turn the key and leave it on, but not start for a few seconds and then start. My fuel filter was bad, but I didn't know it, and it did what yours is doing and I just got in the habit of turning the key leaving it on for a second and then starting, now even after replacing the filter I still always do it. Just try it, it will eliminate one thing.
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Originally posted by CocaColaEatsPieIt could be your fuel filter. To figure out if it's fuel related just turn the key and leave it on, but not start for a few seconds and then start. My fuel filter was bad, but I didn't know it, and it did what yours is doing and I just got in the habit of turning the key leaving it on for a second and then starting, now even after replacing the filter I still always do it. Just try it, it will eliminate one thing.
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Originally posted by DJ TasoIt's not my fuel pump. I had it replaced in October. My SES light did come on once a couple weeks ago and stayed on for the ride home. I started it up again after that and it never came on again. It cranks fine it just takes a while for it to start. I'm having my plugs and wires redone soon with a new opti. Hope that will fix it.
New NGK's, MSD wires, etc...97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM
01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines
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Originally posted by MN6WS6Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If the car is not maintaining 25-40 psi at rest, then it's the pump. I put a gauge on mine, and just before it went out, it would go from 40 psi to 0 psi in like 5 seconds after you killed the ignition. What will happen is that the check valve that maintains fuel pressure in the car will break, and any pressure in the line after the car is cut off releases into the tank and dries the line out. So when you turn the car on, the pump is trying to pressurize the line, but the fuel is just pouring back into the tank. So it takes like 3-5 seconds for it to get enough pressure to start. After that the car runs fine, and even if you refire within like a minute or two of shutdown it starts fine. If the car runs fine while driving, refires easily within 1 minute of shutdown, and can still spank non-boosted Mustangs with ease, then it's the fuel pump.
Easier way to test it........just cycle the key a few times before you crank the car. If it start right up after cycling, then its probably the valve in the fuel pump....even if its new, its still a possibility.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
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