Dyno Results(I'm not MAD)........

[NorthernSS]

Dyno'd on Sunday and I'm pissed. 97 SS with SLP headers, Loudmouth, MSD wires, Bosh plugs, LT4 KM, K&N, and 60k miles. i got 256 rwhp and 290 rwtq. WTF!!!!! I was expecting more than that. My A/F was 12.1 down to 11.9 by the top end. Even got to 11.8 on another run. I don't have a scanner to show my graph and results. Is there a place to start without goin overboard? I don't have the money to tear into it yet. I will get CAI because the Ram Air ain't good enough untill higher speeds. Will that help the A/F prob? Only positive I can come away with is that my TQ was over 280 from 3500 to 4800 and the dyno started at 3500. And I saw some ripper @$$ cars too. Any suggestions/comments would be much appreciated. I'm just dissapointed and frustrated. Sorry for the long post. Thanks.

[SLeeper]

When you think about it, the only mods you have that make
power over a stock LS1 is the muffler and the headers.

LS1 exhaust isn't too bad for the motor to begin with so
you can't expect too much more than what you dyno'd.

That's about 15 HP more at the wheels than a stock LS1.
Nothing to laugh at...

[NorthernSS]

I am most conserned about the A/F being so low. What would help to get that up?

[Injuneer]

Originally posted by SLeeper
When you think about it, the only mods you have that make
power over a stock LS1 is the muffler and the headers.

LS1 exhaust isn't too bad for the motor to begin with so
you can't expect too much more than what you dyno'd.

That's about 15 HP more at the wheels than a stock LS1.
Nothing to laugh at...

a) What does an LS1 have to do with his 97 SS LT1?

b) Stock LS1's put down 290-300+rwHP. Stock LT1's 230-255 depending on tranny.

His LT1 is a shade on the low side for what he has done. Not real bad, but not real good either. Is this an M6 or an A4?

A/F is EXACTLY where the stock PCM programming puts it. Typical "target" A/F ratio at WOT (power enrichment mode) is 11.7:1. You can't change that with a CAI. "Programming" is the only thing that can improve it.

Typical gains from leaning it out a bit might be in the range of 12-15HP. But I wouldn't get a reprogram without doing something more significant, like a cam.

I'm assuming you are using the SLP "dual-cat" headers, and these are simply not going to produce the kind of gains a good set of LT's would produce. Are you limited by emissions considerations?

[SLeeper]

Oops, I stand corrected. The LS1 came in 98 correct?

That would make his HP numbers a little easier to swallow.

[Joe 1320]

There are a few tricks that can add up. A 160º thermostat (low $$), Throttle body heat line bypass(free), 1LE aluminum driveshaft, 1.6 ratio rockers. There are also a few other tricks that some may disagree with, but even if they add power below the curve, it will be an improvement: Airfoil($30), underdrive pulleys and belt ($75) , IAT resistor ($1).

Try this link: http://www.ws6.com/bangbuck.htm

or: http://www.ws6.com/mycar.htm

These will give you a few ideas.

[wolfdogs]

Originally posted by SLeeper
When you think about it, the only mods you have that make
power over a stock LS1 is the muffler and the headers.

LS1 exhaust isn't too bad for the motor to begin with so
you can't expect too much more than what you dyno'd.

That's about 15 HP more at the wheels than a stock LS1.
Nothing to laugh at...

the loudmouth is not a "muffler". it uses an inline resonator.

[wolfdogs]

Originally posted by SLeeper
Oops, I stand corrected. The LS1 came in 98 correct?

"That would make his HP numbers a little easier to swallow."

98 and up.


"That would make his HP numbers a little easier to swallow."
?????????? thought you said "thats about 15hp MORE than a stock LS1..........."

no offense....r u sure you know what you are talking about? sometimes feeding the wrong information can be harmfull.

[TimeLord]

Doesn't the LT4 cam count as a power adder,it sure woke my car up ?

[SLeeper]

I have it pretty much under control Wolfman, I simply screwed up
the reference to the LT1 as an LS1. LS1 was introduced in 98 -
my bad.

The wheel numbers I was referring to was for LT1.

~15 HP above a stock LT1 at the wheel is not too bad when you
consider that fact that the, wires and plugs probably didn't help
much - if the OEM parts were in good condition.

Sorry about the confusion everyone!

[NorthernSS]

I do have emmissions to deal with, it's an A4, and dual cat headers. The guy who ran the dyno said my A/F should be about 12.4 then get down to 12.1 or 12.2 then at the top end get back up. Also he to get rid of those MSD wires and Bosh plugs. No gains but a better consistent plug would be good. There is a local company around Vancouver here that he says makes the best wires. Aurora. Showed us all the different types and you could tell the difference. I know my numbers aren't far off but you know the expectations when you drop alot of money on the car then start to mod it and it's not where you think it should be.

[N20LT4Bird]

Joe1320 - you mentioned an intake air temp resistor. Does this trick the computer into leaning out the mix? I have not seen this done. What is the theory behind it and what resistor do you get and which wire is it spliced into?

[JL8Jeff]

You could probably benefit from better plugs and a hotter ignition setup. I just put a GMPP distributor, MSD wires, AC Rapidfire plugs and a Hypertech coil in my SS454 pickup and it made a big difference in the way the truck ran. It smoothed out, got quieter and the emissions were super clean. My old 93 Z28 had the Jacobs ignition box on it and I ran Taylor wires with Rapidfire plugs when I had the Powerdyne supercharger on it and I still passed NJ emissions with it.

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
Joe1320 - you mentioned an intake air temp resistor. Does this trick the computer into leaning out the mix? I have not seen this done. What is the theory behind it and what resistor do you get and which wire is it spliced into?

Nope..... the IAT is responsible for timing advance. Disconnect the IAT harness connector and insert a 4.7K ohm resistor into the harness (fools the computer into thinking a 57º ambient temps). You'll have to clip the resistor a little shorter and bend it into a U shape. After inserting the ends into the harness, I then insert it into a film canister and tuck it out of the way to keep everything clean and protected. This mod will quicken the rate of the timing advance, you'll have to run premium fuel and the throttle response will definately be better. It will negate the power loss experienced when the heat from the engine radiates to the IAT (especially with the SS filter setup) This is almost identical to the SLP timing tricker for substantially more money. You'll expecially like the fact that the first 1/2 of the pedal travel will have a much snappier response.

[wolfdogs]

Originally posted by SLeeper
I have it pretty much under control Wolfman, I simply screwed up
the reference to the LT1 as an LS1. LS1 was introduced in 98 -
my bad.

The wheel numbers I was referring to was for LT1.

~15 HP above a stock LT1 at the wheel is not too bad when you
consider that fact that the, wires and plugs probably didn't help
much - if the OEM parts were in good condition.

Sorry about the confusion everyone!