Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Spun Main Bearings

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Spun Main Bearings

    Just like the title says I have spun main bearings in my car. I got the tranny off yesterday, put it on the stand and started pulling bearing caps. The front and rear looked fine, then I got to the second cap back from the front and when I removed it the bearing just laid on the crank. Instead of the split between the two bearing halves being flush with the block the one side was up in the engine and the other facing straight up at me. The crank is scored some so I'm going to have it turned. I haven't gotten to the other main bearings yet I'm going to tonight and I'll also take a look at the rod bearings when I pull the crank. Should I do anything else while I'm in there? I'm going to replace my oil pump, main bearings, rod bearings, and have the crank turned. I know I should do a 383 stroker while its all apart but my money is going towards college and just fixing it right has me strapped enough I'm just keeping it stock internally.
    1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

  • #2
    Most OEM replacement new oil pumps do not come with a new pickup, so chances are that you might have to re-use your pickup. Make sure that you tack weld your pickup to the new pump. So just keep that in mind. You new pump may or may not come with a new pickup

    If it were me, I would go ahead and pull the pistons and re-ring them. Might as well install new rings along with new bearings.

    If you have the money, I would opt for a set of ARP rod bolts and main studs. The ARP main studs are far greater at keeping the main cap registered properly and keeping the main bearings from walking. I would also get the crank journals polished after being turned. you could always have the rods re-sized while they are out for additional strength. Also be careful when you are putting those small 10mm bolts back into the pan. You can snap the heads of of those pretty easily.

    Comment


    • #3
      Man, that really sucks. Hope you get everything fixed and it won't cost too much. That is my biggest fear...of course it is an excuse for a 383, cam, etc.
      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

      Comment


      • #4
        Most OEM replacement new oil pumps do not come with a new pickup, so chances are that you might have to re-use your pickup. Make sure that you tack weld your pickup to the new pump. So just keep that in mind. You new pump may or may not come with a new pickup
        Thanks for the advice, I actually replaced my pump about 10k miles ago by pulling the pan and had to tack weld the pickup in I'll do that again I'm replacing it just for peace of mind.

        I pulled the rest of the caps yesterday and the other two bearings were spun the one was much worse than the first I pulled that was spun. So my front and back were perfect but the middle three are spun. I was running out of time before I had to go to work so I just pulled one rod cap off and the bearing inside of it just laid on the crank and did not come out with the cap. It did not look that bad but I will definetly be replacing my rod bearings.

        If someone can tell me how I took a picture of the first spun main bearing I pulled off its not the highest quality but still shows how badly it is scored.
        1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

        Comment


        • #5
          I figured it out. Its not the best picture I took it with my phone but it shows how scored the bearing is.
          Attached Files
          1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

          Comment

          Working...
          X