I'm going to the local tire shop tommorow to order new rims and tires. I'm getting torq thrust II's 17x9.5 on the front and 17x11 on the back. I was going to stay with the same size as stock (16x8 I think) so I could reuse tire but in my year of driving I have tortured those back tires and their shot ( that'll have to stop once I get those 11's though cause I assuming their not cheap) Anyway I was wondering If I should get 11s on the back or should I get the 9.5s instead. What are the advantages of 11's or do they just look cool
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Originally posted by c_cI'm going to the local tire shop tommorow to order new rims and tires. I'm getting torq thrust II's 17x9.5 on the front and 17x11 on the back. I was going to stay with the same size as stock (16x8 I think) so I could reuse tire but in my year of driving I have tortured those back tires and their shot ( that'll have to stop once I get those 11's though cause I assuming their not cheap) Anyway I was wondering If I should get 11s on the back or should I get the 9.5s instead. What are the advantages of 11's or do they just look coolSteve
79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
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Yup, the added rotating mass will decrease RWHP by a few. Here are the dyno results: http://www.ws6.com/wheels.htm going from stock 17x9 WS6 rims to 11" ones.
But the added gains in traction should make up (and more) for the loss of a couple RWHP.94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...
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I run the 17x11's on the street with 315/35-17 BFG Drag Radials. They are almost enough to let the car hook and I'm pushing 500flywheelHP through a TH400 with a high stall converter and 4.11 gears. Previously I ran 17x9.5's with 275/40-17 GY GS-C's and the slightest twitch of the throttle seemed to spin the tires... and that was with 3.73's.
The wider contact patch of 315's should also help with ultimate cornering capabilities (within the constraints of the solid rear axle design).
I believe the TT II's have a 7.75" backspace on the 17x11's, and that should avoid most of the rubbing on the inner fenders (less hammering required), and minimize the interference with the corner of the jounce bumper bracket (less grinding required). But it will increase the chances of the fender wheel opening "lip" catching the outer edge of the tire wall on hard jounce and cornering. I had a problem with mine (AFS with 7.93" backspace) rubbing on really hard shifts when the car still had the M6 tranny. You need to watch it very carefully, and if you are having a problem with the lip rubbing the tire, you roll the inner edge of the lip up against the inner fender and the problem will be minimized. You could also check the rear centering of the body over the rear axle. The space from the fender lip to the tire should be about the same on both sides, and if it isn't you would need an adjustable panhard rod to recenter it.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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