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  • help with clutch replacement

    I have a 95 camaro with a six speed trans. It is time to replace the clutch. I will be doing the work my self. I just recieved my helms manual in the mail today. I have'nt started the work yet. I was wondering if there was anything I need to be aware of while doing the work. Thanks for the help.

  • #2
    Get directions from Shoeboxes' site for R&R on the trans. Get a good quality replacement clutch assemby,I got Spec's stage 3, the stage 3+ is supposed to be more streetable. Resurface the flywheel at your local machine shop, or get an aluminum flywheel. Replace the rear trans and torque arm mounts. Replace the trans seals, check and see if the rear main seal on the engine needs replacement. Check and see if the EGR tube is starting to melt the silicone out of the rear of the intake manifold (makes a nasty oil leak),insulate the tube with header tape (I pulled the tube and blocked off the openings in the exhaust and intake manifolds).

    Check for other problems while the trans is out,ie the parking brake cable.

    This should keep you busy for the entire weekend.
    The Old Guy! '94 z-28, m-6, t-tops, go-fast red, 316k. Now with '96 engine w/ Lt-4 hot cam, roller rockers, heavy duty timing chain, and Spec stage 2 clutch.

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    • #3
      My oldman and I were going to replace the clutch but decided not to due to the fact that we didnt have the proper tools and ddint want to mess something up. I took mine to a friend that works at GM and he did it on a weekend for me. You will need a new flywheel with the clutch kit and throw out bearing if it doesnt come in the kit. I went with a stock replacement clutch and have been happy with it. Good Luck, i have heard the spec clutches are great
      1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

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      • #4
        Replacing the clutch is about a days job for someone who has never done it before. An experienced person can do it in a couple of hours. The only special tool you will need is a pilot bearing pulling. You can get this at AutoZone on their tool borrowing program. You pay for the tool and you get reimbursed when you bring it back.

        I would advise you not to touch the flywheel. If you were to take the flywheel and they Blanchard grind it, it will chatter very badly when you let the clutch out. It has to be turned on a lathe. You could replace the flywheel but they cost like $350 for an aftermarket one and around $175 from GMpartsdirect.com for a stock one. There just isn't a need to resurface it unless it is badly hot spotted which a stock organic clutch will probably not do.

        You should replace the pressure plate. The springs get weak over time.

        If you don't have any big power adders like a supercharger, nitrous or a heavily built engine you do not need a ceramic clutch disc and you might be very disappointed with the chatter that they can cause. I would recommend the SLP clutch and pressure plate. http://www.lmperformance.com/2970/2.html A lot of people here use the Spec clutch but I bought a Spec stage 2 clutch which was factory defective and caused all kinds of problems. I replaced it with a SLP and all the problems went away.

        It's not a hard job. It just takes time. Like Pete says it's a good time to check for the rear intake manifold leak that the LT1 is so prone to having. The trans mount is notorious for breaking but I have never heard of the torque arm bushing going bad. Replacing the trans seals might be a little excessive.

        If you decide to get a Spec pressure plate, the stock pressure plate bolts will not be long enough. I had to go to 5 different automotive places to find 6 bolts for it. FYI all of the Spec pressure plates are the same whether you get a stage 1 or a stage 5. The only difference is the disc.

        One more piece of advise is to remove the oil pressure sending unit before you let down the back of the transmission. I broke mine. You can get a special deep well socket just for the sending unit from the car parts store. A regular deep well is not deep enough.
        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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