proper transmission removal and replacement

[redbird94]

what is the proper procedure for removing my junked old trans and replacing it with a new one.

[DeWynter]

I have never done an auto in a f-body but I have done the one in my 68 gmc, cant be to different.
1) Jack up car and BLOCK so it cant move or fall.
2) remove drive shaft( 4 bolts)
3) Remove electrical plugs from trany (2 or 3)
4) Remove shift linkage/cable
5) Get a floor Jack or trany jack and place under trany.
6) Remove trany bolts or bolt from crossmember (1 bolt)
7) Remove crossmember bolts an remove crossmember (4 bolts)
8) Place blocking or another floor jack under oil pan at rear of engine.
9) Remove ring gear cover plate (4-6 bolts)
10) Remove ring gear bolts from torque converter (3-4 Bolts)
11) Remove trany bolts from engine block (5-6 bolts)
12) Pull trany back to rear of car to remove the dowel pins
13) lower trany on jack and remove from under car.
Now do the opposite to put it back in.
Im sure others will chime in with any things I missed

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Go to this link. http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm

Start with the section that says "Disassembly". He's not kidding about getting the car as high as you can. Mine was on the top notch of my jack stands and I had to pick up the tail shaft to get the bell housing low enough to drag it out. It's tight.

Skip the "inside" section. (Not applicable to you.)

Go to the "outside" section.
I didn't have to undo the exhaust like he did. He had headers which made the exhaust in the way. Your 94 shouldn't be in the way either. All I had to do was unbolt the catalytic converter from the pipe the intermediate pipe.

I would also advise you to remove the oil pressure sending unit or when you lower the back of the tranny to remove the bell housing bolts you might break it. I broke mine. http://shbox.com/1/oil_pressure_sensor.jpg You can get a deep well socket made for removing the sensor from the auto parts store. A regular deep well is not deep enough. You can get to it with a deep well and a 6" extension from the drivers side under the hood.

Also he does not say this but if you try and slide the trans out before unbolting the torque converter you will have a hard time. I would suggest unbolting the torque converter from the flex plate before trying to drop the trans. It took me like an hour to get the trans out without unbolting the torque converter. You'll have to rotate the motor until you can get to a bolt. Remove it. Rotate it again until you can get the next bolt out. Etc etc.

One more thing, there are 6 bolts that hold the trans to the engine. Looking at the back of the motor from the back the 2nd one from the left moving clockwise is about impossible to get out with a ratchet and any kind or swivel. My advise is before lower the back of the tranny it to take that bolt out with a box end wrench. It's easy to get to this way.


Assembly is in the reverse order.

[95TransAm]

Another quick tip.....

I have done this procedure as well, and thanks to the guys here over a year ago, I was able to get one pesky bolt that caused me problems.

The top driver's side trans-engine bolt is a PAIN!!!! Being that I tried many many many ways to get it (crawling over the top of the engine, tilting back the engine, underneath, etc...), I can definitely say that this method was the only one that worked.

Get all your extensions together, and get at it from going over the tailshaft of the tranny. It's going to be about 3 feet in extensions + a swivel + the socket to get to it. What I did was place everything on top of the tranny as close as I could possibly get it to the bolt. I then crawled on top of my engine and placed the socket on the bolt. Crawled back under the car, and tried my best to get a good angle so the socket doesn't immediately slip off. Took about 3 tries, but on that third one she broke loose at the expense of a nice big gash in my hand....well worth it.

Good luck