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adjustable or non adjustable panard bar?

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  • adjustable or non adjustable panard bar?

    adjustable or non adjustable panard bar?
    1994 firebird formula

    no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

  • #2
    Depends on what your future goals for your car are.

    I have a non adjustable because right now all I needed was an upgrade over my stock one when I snapped it in half.

    If you want to get serious with drag/handling capabilities, then an adjustable one would probably be better. Just make sure that you have it done at an alignment shop to get it done right if you don't know how to do it yourself.
    black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

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    • #3
      95 trans am what do you run in the 1/4 mile
      1994 firebird formula

      no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

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      • #4
        Adjustable is great for re-centering the rear of the car. It is especially necessary if the car is lowered. If you have a factory ride height, non adjustable is still a wise upgrade. My thinking is that at least if the plans change later, the adjustable will perform well in both situations.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Joe 1320
          Adjustable is great for re-centering the rear of the car. It is especially necessary if the car is lowered.
          I thought that an adjustable was good for lowered cars....just didn't wanna give bad advice.

          I still have stock ride height for now, so the non-adjustable works fine for me. Eventually when I lower my car, I will then switch to an adjustable.

          Redbird94~I still have no idea what I run in the 1/4. I was supposed to go to the track about a week ago with 2 of my buddies, but one of my friends couldn't make it due to some last minute family stuff.

          We are planning on going the end of this month though
          black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

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          • #6
            Considering the price difference is very small, I'd go with adjustable. I have one on my car, and it is wonderful. Regardless of whether your car is lowered, your rear is probably not perfectly center at rest due to manufacturing differences in every vehicle, not to mention how much stuff you carry in your car changes how centered the rearend is. I also have 17X11's, and as all of us know that have those wheels, the factory bar does not center the rear perfectly in most circumstances. That's why the adjustable PHR is pretty much mandatory with 11's in the rear.
            "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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            • #7
              how hard is it to adjust it?
              1994 firebird formula

              no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by redbird94
                how hard is it to adjust it?
                To get it perfectly, I would take it to a shop.
                black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

                Comment


                • #9
                  It depends on which one you get. I have the Spohn one, and you adjust it in the middle. I backed the car up on ramps with a half tank of gas (typically my car is between 3/4 tank and 1/4 tank, I only fill it up on road trips). I measured from the inner edge of the rim to the wheelwell on both sides, and adjusted until it was dead center. No problems at all. I've since tweaked it a few times due to lack of thread lock on the lock nuts, but I'd venture to guess it's within 1/8-1/4 inch of being right. And since this ain't NASCAR, 1/4 inch ain't gonna hurt anything
                  "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by redbird94
                    how hard is it to adjust it?
                    that depends on the style of bar. A single adjustable bar requires one end to be unattached and the threaded end either lengthened or shortened, then the end is reattched to the mount. Double adjustable does not require one end to be disconnected. The adjustment is made in the middle of the bar and once the bar is the correct length, locknuts are used to lock the bar at that length. It is nice to not have to continually remove one end when you want to tweak it. Technically, this also gives you a finer control of the length of the bar because you can run changes of less than 180º of twist.

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