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  • #1

    Front Swaybar...

    When doing my shocks and lowering springs I broke part of the front swaybar end link and am thinking now is a good time to replace it.

    Does anyone know the stock size of the swaybar or any advantage to going to a larger swaybar?

    '95 TA A4, 118000 on the clock!
    Borla, Strange 3.73's, SLP CAI, Vortech elbow,AFS Z06 Wheels,White gauges/blue backlighting,blue custom interior,MBA Shift knob,MadZ28 Tune, Intrax springs, Bilstein shocks, ES Trans Mount, Honeycomb taillights.

    13.685@102.11
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Originally posted by jerrysta
    When doing my shocks and lowering springs I broke part of the front swaybar end link and am thinking now is a good time to replace it.

    Does anyone know the stock size of the swaybar or any advantage to going to a larger swaybar?
    The stock bar sucks. It's hollow so you can't really compare it to a solid bar. A 1" solid bar may be stiffer than a 1.5" hollow bar. Wait till you take it off and compare the weight of a solid bar to it.

    If you replace the stock front bar and leave the stock rear bar it will make the car over steer a lot. You should replace both the front and back to keep the handling balanced.

    You will be amazed at how much better it handles with just better sway bars.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

    Comment

    • #3
      Autozone has end links. Just measure what you need and get ones that are close. The stock sawbar is 32mm I believe which is about 1 1/4"
      I have a 21mm rear bar with the stock front bar and it handles much better than stock.


      LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-BP, GMPP 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, Adj. tierod, BMR tower brace, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 GY F1 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam

      Comment

      • #4
        For endlinks, with new bushings, look for the Energy Suspension parts, with polyurethane bushings. I did those kits on both the front and the rear sway bars (back when I was still using them) and they made a huge difference in reducing body roll... sort of the same results you would get with a larger bar.

        The ES kits include a bolt, a sleeve, the not and all four bushing pieces, meaning you have a complte new end link.
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

        Comment

        • #5
          The Stock sway bars are:
          Front 30 mm
          Rear 19 mm

          The 1LE ones are:

          Front 32 mm
          Rear 21 mm

          The best performance combo

          Front 35 mm...pricey because is solid
          Rear 21 mm

          Agree with Injuneer...use the poly bushings and end links
          Regards
          Dochidalgo
          97 A4 Pontiac Firebird Trans am with $everal mod$

          Comment

          • #6
            I thought I read somewhere on the site that switching the rear sway bar will sometimes lead to a rear end that was a little more unpredictable.

            I think it was joe1320 who commented that the stock REAR bar was set up great for the average driver. I don't want to put words in his mouth though.

            '95 TA A4, 118000 on the clock!
            Borla, Strange 3.73's, SLP CAI, Vortech elbow,AFS Z06 Wheels,White gauges/blue backlighting,blue custom interior,MBA Shift knob,MadZ28 Tune, Intrax springs, Bilstein shocks, ES Trans Mount, Honeycomb taillights.

            13.685@102.11

            Comment

            • #7
              Guys, I have to apologize for being an idiot. I already have the new end links BC I broke the bolt when removing it.

              What actually broke was the metal around the hole where you bolt the end link bolt into. I was putting a lot of strain on the bolt and the bolt snapped, the swaybar shot up smashed my thumb and somehow broke part of the end of the swaybar. It did not completely break, only the top half broke off.

              So I don't need end link I need a new swaybar.

              Sorry guys, any suggestions?

              '95 TA A4, 118000 on the clock!
              Borla, Strange 3.73's, SLP CAI, Vortech elbow,AFS Z06 Wheels,White gauges/blue backlighting,blue custom interior,MBA Shift knob,MadZ28 Tune, Intrax springs, Bilstein shocks, ES Trans Mount, Honeycomb taillights.

              13.685@102.11

              Comment

              • #8
                Originally posted by dochidalgo
                The Stock sway bars are:
                Front 30 mm
                Rear 19 mm

                The 1LE ones are:

                Front 32 mm
                Rear 21 mm

                The best performance combo

                Front 35 mm...pricey because is solid
                Rear 21 mm

                Agree with Injuneer...use the poly bushings and end links
                Regards
                Dochidalgo
                Who makes a 35mm bar that is solid? I have seen a hollow 35mm but not a solid one.

                Hotchkis is 36mm and hollow
                http://www.hotchkis.net/cgi-bin/EDCs...atalogno=2203F

                Spohn and BMRs are 32mm.
                2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                Comment

                • #9
                  Originally posted by jerrysta
                  Guys, I have to apologize for being an idiot. I already have the new end links BC I broke the bolt when removing it.

                  What actually broke was the metal around the hole where you bolt the end link bolt into. I was putting a lot of strain on the bolt and the bolt snapped, the swaybar shot up smashed my thumb and somehow broke part of the end of the swaybar. It did not completely break, only the top half broke off.

                  So I don't need end link I need a new swaybar.

                  Sorry guys, any suggestions?
                  This is an FYI not a suggestion. SLP has take off sway bars for $10.
                  http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=96302
                  2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                  1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                  A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    I have the stock front and rear sway bars, both with ES poly mount bushings and ES poly end links available. If anyone wants them, we can probably work out a low $$$ price + shipping.

                    The front's been off a couple years, the rear was replaced last year with the Spohn 35mm solid chrome moly spring steel "race" version bar.... the car doesn't need to go around corners any more....
                    Fred

                    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      SLP sells the 35 mm solid sway bar, 250 or 275 bucks I guess

                      My car has installed the 32 mm front and 21 mm rear with poly bushings all around....a huge difference in cornerings and change of lanes in the highways, plus the tower brace and the subframe connectors the complete kit is a must in order to achive the best suspension performance.

                      Regards
                      Dochidalgo
                      97 A4 Pontiac Firebird Trans am with $everal mod$

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        I have BMR's 32mm solid(front) - 21mm(rear) solid sway bars. $349 with polly bushings and end links. Body roll is gone....the car turns hard when you tell it to.

                        Great mod in my book!!!

                        Spohn makes a 32mm solid front bar - 22mm solid rear bar.... They also make a 25mm solid rear. I haven't driven in a car with this setup. This setup is about $150 each and comes with polly bushings and end links.
                        John
                        97RS "Arrest me red" - LETSCEM - under the knife
                        02WS.6/TA #4024 "Wash me again black" RDOZREL - Hotchkis STB, MTI lid, BMR SFC's, BMR SB's, SB Brake Lines, SureStop rotors, Carbotech pads.
                        99 Bravada

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Originally posted by dochidalgo
                          SLP sells the 35 mm solid sway bar, 250 or 275 bucks I guess....

                          Regards
                          Dochidalgo
                          The SLP sway bar that came stock on 2000-2002 Firehawks and SS's are hollow. Look in the hole where the sway bar end link goes. You can see a ring around it in the middle. That's where the center of the tube was before they smashed the ends flat to put the hole in it. http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...48&BIG=10448-1
                          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                          Comment

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