Rear end question

[Ken(Bone Breakin Chevy)]

Im looking at rear ends, just for future reference. I dont have to power right now to need a new one, nor do i have the money. Any ways my question is what is the difference in how many splines the axles have?
-ken-

[M3EATER - GG '00 WS6 T/A]

Ken...... The more splines that the axle has, the stronger it will be in that area, which is your connection between the side differential gears (or spool) and the axle.

The additional splines mean that the torque is transferred through more surface area and each spline is loaded less. It doesn't have much to do with the overall strength of the rest of the axle, but the highest stress point is at the splines. A weak axle will start to actually twist at this point ..... that's typically where an axle will break.

gordon

[Ken(Bone Breakin Chevy)]

well now i dont have to learn anything in class, ive already learned something new today. thanks gordon
-ken-

[Injuneer]

The Strange 12-bolt comes standard with 33-spline axles. That has proven adequate for applications up to 950HP that I am aware of. I think Moser might charge extra for 33-spline.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

It isn't just the number of splines, it's that they are spaced evenly at a standard cut. The larger number of splines there are, the larger the diameter of the axle, too.

[N20LT4Bird]

I want to upgrade my rear end, but dont have the $ right now for a 12 bolt. Has anyone had success with beefing up the stock 10 bolt with an eaton unit, strange axles, girdle etc..?????? What kind of longevity will this give me at 500+ HP with full slicks and hard launches?? I dont know if I would be wasting my $, but it will still only cost about half that of the 12 bolt.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

The problem is by the time you buy all that stuff and pay someone to put it in - you've spent a bundle. The pinion gear is puny as are the spider gears. My guess is that slicks, hard launches, & 500 hp will kill it. There are a few guys that have miraculously made them survive, but wayyy more of them that bit the dust and it can be ugly depending on what breaks. There are some older 10 bolts which are a lot stronger and have larger gears, but then if you found one, you would probably have to get it set up for your car. I would have more specific info for you, but I gave all my 10 bolt stuff to the guy who bought my old 10 bolt rear end

[N20LT4Bird]

Well, I already have the girdle and I would be setting up the rear myself. So, I think i would be looking at spending about 400-500 for the posi unit and then another 300-400 for the axles, plus instal kit etc.. 700-800 is alot cheaper than 2000. I just dont know if it would hold up enough to be worth the 700-800.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

If you build the 10 bolt, get the Ratech solid spacer. It replaces the wimpy crush sleeve and just may save your rear end. It is more of a trial & error setup, but it is worth the $12 or so. Also get an extra identical pinion bearing and using a dremel sanding drum, cut the inside just .001 or so to make it a tight slip fit onto the pinion. That way, you can do multiple fitments for the pinion shims without trashing out the bearing by pressing it on & pulling it off multiple times. It might take you a couple extra hours to do it this way, but it's stronger than the crush sleeve. If you have a depth gauge, use the numbers on the pinion gear, but adjust as needed for the pattern, leaning slightly towards more toe so when it flexes, it will be in the sweet spot of the ring gear. Good luck.

[BAS]

I had no problems pressing my inner pinion bearing
on and off multiple times.

Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA and just may save your rear end. It is more of a trial & error setup, but it is worth the $12 or so. Also get an extra identical pinion bearing and using a dremel sanding drum, cut the inside just .001 or so to make it a tight slip fit onto the pinion. That way, you can do multiple fitments for the pinion shims without trashing out the bearing by pressing it on & pulling it off multiple times. It might take you a couple extra hours to do it this way, but it's stronger than the crush sleeve. If you have a depth gauge, use the numbers on the pinion gear, but adjust as needed for the pattern, leaning slightly towards more toe so when it flexes, it will be in the sweet spot of the ring gear. Good luck. [/B]

[M3EATER - GG '00 WS6 T/A]

I've been running around & around with this....

Ive been researching and contemplating the viability of building the 7.5" 10-bolt to hold up on a street car with 400 RWHP.

If you use a beefy diff unit (or spool), good axles with 30 or more splines, weld the axle tubes all the way around @ the center section, use a girdle & pre-load rear cover (for drag & street.... or the AAM cover for road racing...to cool the oil), use only the highest quality gears and PERFECT set-up on everything ...... you'll have a fairly strong street rear end that will hold up well to hobby road racing and moderate hobby drag racing ... no slicks.

Now, that said...... , 500 HP on slicks is gonna kill one of these.

In your case.. I'd say the $1000 expenditure is kinda iffy. You'll be , at least, chewing up gears ..... if nothing else.

Gordon

[N20LT4Bird]

Thanks guys, I guess im running Nittos until I can afford the Moser.